The realm of antioxidants is truly fascinating. They play a pivotal role within skincare and their prevalence in the healthcare market has been booming since we can remember, in the forms of super-foods and super-green supplements to articles on ‘the beauty industry’s best kept secret: berries’.
THE TRUTH ABOUT EYE CARE
Your eye area is the most delicate skin that exists on your face, it’s prone to fine lines, wrinkles and dark circles. However, with countless options available on the market, it’s hard to know which products are worth the investment and which are simply a marketing hype.
Do you really need an eye cream? Can you use the same moisturiser for your face and eyes? Is it just a ploy to sell you 2 of the same products? The truth is your skin around your eyes is vastly different from the rest of your face that requires specialised care and attention.
The orbicularis muscle is a circular muscle that surrounds your eye and is responsible for opening and closing your eyelids. Unlike other facial muscles, which are typically involved in the facial expressions and move more dynamically, the orbicularis muscle has a more static role and doesn’t contract and extend like other muscles. Your eyeball itself rests on top of this lipidic bed of muscles, which must be agile enough for your eye to move freely but also firm enough to secure your eye in its place.
As we age the muscles in our body, including facial ones, naturally lose strength and mass, known as muscle atrophy. Your eye area is particularly prone to atrophy and may deteriorate faster than other muscles. This is due to the lack of padding with skin and fat, because of its specialised role and specific anatomy of the muscle itself. Weakening of the orbicularis muscle and its inability to support your eyeball leads to the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and sagging.
Furthermore, the muscles around your eye area play a crucial role in supporting the lymphatic and circulatory systems, which help to remove waste and fluids from your body. Damage and weakness in these muscles also affects your eye’s drainage system, which leads to the accumulation of fluids causing puffiness and dark circles. And that’s just about the muscle.
Your skin, however, is much thinner and more delicate than the skin on the rest of your face. It also has fewer oil glands, making it much more susceptible to dryness and wrinkles. It also means that it’s more challenging for active ingredients to penetrate.
To prevent the negative effects of ageing and external factors, such as oxidative stress and UV damage on your eye area, there are specific products available that effectively improve appearance. It is crucial to take note of the texture of eye creams/serums, as your eye area has fewer follicles and sebaceous glands, making penetration and dispersion of active ingredients more challenging. Textural differences can make a significant positive impact on the effects of an eye cream. When paired with specific delivery systems, we can be much more hopeful in the results.
Ayuna’s latest innovation, the Eye Serum, impressed me greatly with both its texture and delivery system. Instead of adding a delivery system to enhance efficacy, Ayuna encapsulated the whole serum by 100%. This means that every single drop of serum is enclosed within the intelligent encapsulation to penetrate your eye area better and seal it in. The serum penetrates through three pathways, namely the hair follicle/oil gland, between the cell membranes, and through the fatty layers of the epidermis. Better penetration and slow release encapsulation ensures that the ingredients reach their desired area without being broken down, leaving only trace aspects when they reach their intended destination.
Therefore, it is essential to consider how an ingredient is actually getting into your skin, particularly around your eye. When these innovations are paired together with ingredients, such as Caffeine to constrict blood vessels, Fucoidans from Brown Algae to strengthen capillaries and inhibit inflammatory cells, and B Escin a pharmaceutical grade molecule from horse chestnut to reduce vascular leakage, then we can safely say, it’s impressive!
Auteur's Definitive Eye Cream is another impressive option that enhances the efficacy of its ingredients. Adenosine 5 Triphosphate, a vital energy molecule for skin cells, combats deficiencies in your skin and improves communication and function between cells.
The cream also contains essential Ceramide Complex, Panthenol, and refined avocado oil, which deeply nourish your skin and regulate inflammation to improve its defense processes. Its intelligent delivery system, Golden Collagenine, blends collagen-boosting peptides with platinum and gold carrier particles to create channels within your skin and penetrate deeper, targeting fibroblast receptors, and dramatically reducing wrinkles.
Secondly, as mentioned prior, Caffeine has great properties in how it constricts blood vessels but it also has great lipolytic action. It is crucial to look for ingredients with lipolytic properties that work in draining the lymphatic system – specifically for those who suffer from stubborn under eye bags. Other specified peptides can also combat the accumulation of water retention. Both of which cause puffiness and bags.
Biologique Recherche’s Serum Liposmose contains lipolytic tetrapeptide that helps to drain fatty bags within your eye contour. It also inhibits the build-up of lipids and the formation of fatty deposits, thereby contributing to their breakdown.
The serum also contains Rance Red Seaweed Extract, which contains osmoregulatory properties that stimulate water flow within areas of retention to allow drainage. It does this by naturally synthesising an agent called Digeneaside, ensuring this water-based serum penetrates your skin better.
Finally, it’s important to determine whether you have sensitive eyes or if you’re using the wrong eye treatments. Investigating surrounding ingredients is crucial to ensuring you get the best results from your routine. While emulsifiers and preservatives are necessary to prevent damage from ingredients, certain ones may irritate your eyes.
Formaldehyde-donating preservatives, like phenoxyethanol, are safe for usage as they usually make up less than 1% of a formula. However, if you have particularly sensitive eyes, it’s best to avoid such ingredients.
If you wear eye makeup, it’s important to treat and cleanse gently. Avoid harsh products with high quantities of alcohol that may dry out your eye area, and harsh movements or abrasive face cloths. Using certain ingredients, like Caffeine or Vitamin C, to brighten your under eye area, actually may further irritate damaged or inflamed skin, even if your eye care formula is designed to respect your eye. Damaged skin is much more reactive than healthy skin, so it’s important to handle it with great care to maximise the benefits of a good eye serum.
Taking care of delicate skin around your eyes is essential in maintaining vibrant skin. When selecting an eye treatment, it’s important to consider these aspects. More specifically, whether they are suitable for you. Additionally, being gentle when applying and removing products and avoiding harsh ingredients will prevent further damage and irritation.
The TRUTH is, with the right approach, well formulated eye care and a little bit of love and gentleness can make a significant impact in reducing fine lines, dark circles, and puffiness, leaving your eye area refreshed and bright.
By Andrew Yates
9TH DEC 2022