Here at Embassy of Beauty, we believe in actives. From Poly Hydroxy Acids to Peptides, active ingredients are imperative for optimal skin health. Every year, scientists continue to bestow breakthroughs in skincare, allowing for a more graceful ageing process. There is one ingredient however that has stood the test of time. For nearly a century, Vitamin A has proven its efficacy over and over. 

Why though? What makes Retinol as good as Vitamin C or Hyaluronic Acid? Or any other ingredient for that matter? 

The History of Vitamin A: From Discovery to Skincare Staple

Let's go back to the 1930s, when Paul Karrer established the chemical structure of Vitamin A. The Noble Prize-winning breakthrough allowed future scientists such as Dr. Albert Kligman to experiment with the vitamin and understand its role in the human body. One of their earliest discoveries was realising that Vitamin A played a hand in regulating skin cell growth and turnover.  

For those who don’t know, a main cause of beauty concerns like fine lines, loss of elasticity and acne, can be traced back to suboptimal cellular turnover. The slower your skin sheds, the more likely the occurrence of comedones, wrinkles and rough texture.  

Dr. Kligman and his team further went on to isolate a concentrated derivative of Vitamin A, and Tretinoic Acid was born. Not only did Tretinoic Acid reduce the formation of blackheads and whiteheads significantly, but it also smoothed out skin texture, boosted collagen production and reduced pigmentation. All that goodness didn’t come without a cost, however. Users also experienced dry, flaky skin, increased sun sensitivity, and even redness. Which led to Tretinoic Acid (AKA Tretinoin) being regulated to prescription use only.  

Thankfully scientists continued to experiment with Vitamin A, and over the 94 years since its initial discovery, a plethora of Retinoid derivatives and natural alternatives have been born. Least of which are Retinol and Bakuchiol.  

Why Retinols Matter

To understand how Retinol derivatives work, you need to picture a ladder where each rung brings you closer to Tretinoic Acid. As we discussed earlier, Tretinoic Acid itself is a concentrated derivative of Vitamin A. But because of how potent it is, there’s also tons of side effects to hurdle through. With Retinoid derivatives though, you essentially slow down the effects of Tretinoic Acid, thereby reigning in the intensity it can have on skin, while still benefiting from amazing results. This is because, once applied to the skin, each Retinol goes through different steps to convert to Tretinoic Acid. Hence the ladder image.  

Retinol itself goes through two metabolic steps in the skin to be converted into Tretinoic Acid. This allows your skin to enjoy the collagen boosting, complexion improving benefits, with much less irritation. Due to how well it targets skin concerns, Retinol is an ingredient that can be used in many forms, including moisturisers, serums and even face masks.  

Yet one often overlooked aspect of skin is the area below the neck. Fortunately, the Bodyologist Instant Booster contains Vitamin A (Retinol), to transform body skin. This lightweight emulsion combats dehydrated skin, harnessing the power of Niacinamide to reduce Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). A blend of natural Alpha Hydroxy Acids, AHA’s, work to further speed up cellular renewal, revealing softer and smoother skin in the process. Free radical scavenging Vitamin E is also included, solidifying this body treatment as a complete all-rounder. 

Retinol Encapsulation: Powerful Results, Less Irritation

Even though Retinol can be a bit much for certain skin types, innovative brands such as Auteur have found a way around the general irritation that comes with it. How? By encapsulating it.  

Retinol Encapsulation involves the literal enclosure of retinol in a protective layer. This allows the gradual release of Retinol into the skin, making it more tolerable, even for those with sensitivity. Encapsulation also increases the stability of Retinol, allowing you to reap its benefits for much longer. 

Auteur's Composition No. 1 Serum is a phenomenally crafted treatment that capitalises on over 9 decades of Retinol research, along with 5 powerful targeted Peptides. Skin is revitalised and rejuvenated, via a 10% concentration of Auteur's Perfluorocomplex. This patented blend increases oxygen levels within skin, working in synergy with Encapsulated Retinol to speed up cellular renewal. Skin is left visibly hydrated, thanks to a combination of sebum mimicking lipids, amino acids and of course, humectant heavy hitter, Hyaluronic Acid.  

Also featuring their Encapsulated Retinol at 0.5%, the Auteur Definitive Retinol Serum combines the powerhouse ingredient with other highly active extracts to brighten and refresh skin overnight. Kahai Oil enhances barrier function, and patented Bioplasma FA reduces damage caused by environmental factors. Complexes of Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid calm the complexion, ensuring even less irritation that may possibly occur due to Retinol. Living up to its moniker, the Definitive Retinol Serum takes things further by incorporating a natural Retinol derivative. Bakuchiol.  

Bakuchiol: A Gentle Alternative for Sensitive Skin

Even with encapsulation, some skin, such as those with severe rosacea, may find Retinol too harsh. That’s where natural alternatives like Bakuchiol come in. Fairly new to the skincare world compared to Retinol, research on the new ingredient started in the early 2000s when it was extracted from the leaves and seeds of the Psoralea Corylifolia Plant, also known as Babchi.  

Yet it wasn’t until 2014 that its “Retinol-like” effects were solidified. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science demonstrated that Bakuchiol can stimulate collagen production, improve cell turnover and reduce hyperpigmentation. Just like Tretinoic Acid. 

Then 4 years later, in 2018, further research compared Bakuchiol to Retinol in a clinical setting. This breakthrough study showed that Bakuchiol had results comparable to Retinol, with lower rates of dryness and irritation. Not only that, but Bakuchiol provided antioxidant protection and soothing properties, making it a saviour for sensitive skin types who always wanted to try Retinol. 

And if you are new to Retinol, we highly recommend popping into our clinic for a Skin Analysis with one of our qualified Therapists. During your appointment, they can fully evaluate your skin and rule out any possible sensitivities before recommending where to start on your Vitamin A journey.  

What’s Right for Your Skin?

For those who understand their skins sensitivities already, and have found Retinol too harsh in the past, we highly recommend a Bakuchiol focused product instead, such as the Venn Collagen Intensive Phyto-Retinol Resurfacing Mask. Far from a traditional clay mask, this skin perfecting gelee hydrates with Aloe Vera, and seals in moisture with Squalane. Fruit enzymes, Papain and Bromelain, pair with 0.5% Bakuchiol to gently, yet effectively exfoliate skin. The supercharged formulation combines two types of Collagens to improve the texture of skin. Perfect for biweekly treatments, it’s a great way to gently introduce Retinol into your routine, building up your skin’s tolerance for more intensive concentrations or derivatives. 

In their Age Recharge Compound K Eye Concentrate, Venn ups the Bakuchiol to 1%, while also implementing a new innovative form of Retinal. Not to be confused with RetinOL, RetinAL only takes one step to convert to Tretinoic Acid in the skin, making it more potent, but also more unstable than its sister derivative. Always ahead of skincare technology however, Venn has broken down the Retinal into small particles without damaging the chemical structure. These tiny particles are then encased in liposomes, stabilising the Retinal and increasing its bioavailability.  

At a 2% concentration, the Retinal in Age Recharge Compound K Eye Concentrate allows it to provide unparalleled anti-ageing benefits. This quick absorbing eye cream has been clinically tested to reduce dark circles, bags and puffiness. With a visible improvement in elasticity around the eye contour, fine lines and wrinkles are diminished. 17 Amino Acids and 5 clinical grade Peptides ensure your eyes get the treatment they deserve. We love this formula for how powerfully potent, yet amazingly gentle it is.  

Getting Started: Introducing Retinol Into Your Routine

Retinol derivatives should usually be incorporated slowly into your routine, due to the potential for irritation. We recommend starting with twice a week usage, and gradually increasing to every night. However, with the encapsulation of Retinol in the Venn and Auteur ranges, the risk of undesirable side effects is much lower.  

As we mentioned earlier, if you’re new to your Retinol journey, we would be more than happy to provide an in-depth Skin Analysis to help you get started. Regardless of your skin type or concerns, the wide range of Retinol derivatives we offer at Embassy of Beauty can help you meet your skin goals. Thank you for reading and hope to see you soon.