Ageing can come from several different factors, environmental damage being the catalyst to the skin. It can come from a variety of sources, including exposure to UV rays from the sun, exposure to pollution, and exposure to other environmental toxins
Peptides: The Building Blocks of Beatiful Skin
Ageing can come from several different factors, environmental damage being the catalyst to the skin. It can come from a variety of sources, including exposure to UV rays from the sun, exposure to pollution, and exposure to other environmental toxins. All these factors can contribute to oxidative stress and inflammation in the skin, leading to the breakdown of collagen and other important skin proteins. This can result in premature ageing, including wrinkles, fine lines, and a loss of skin firmness and elasticity.
Moreover, the hustle and bustle of everyday life and stress can also have a negative impact on our skin. Stress has been shown to increase cortisol levels in the body, which can lead to inflammation and oxidative stress in the skin. Additionally, stress can also lead to changes in our sleep patterns and our diet, both of which can negatively impact our skin.
It’s not all doom and gloom though, there are ingredients that can help give you the youthful, glowing skin you desire. This magic ingredient is peptides, and they're taking the skincare world by storm. We see them everywhere, but what exactly are peptides, and how do they work?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids which are linked together by bonds. Long chains of amino acids eventually become proteins. Amino acids are molecules that combine to form proteins, hence why peptides are otherwise known as building blocks.
In the field of skincare, peptides play a critical role in many biological processes, including cellular signalling, for their ability to stimulate the production key structural proteins in the skin such as collagen and elastin. They are also involved in the immune response, hormone signalling, and the transport of molecules across cell membranes.
Peptides can also improve skin hydration levels, making them a popular ingredient in many anti-aging and skin-hydrating products. They play a crucial role in our skin's structure and function. They can also help to protect your skin from damaging environmental factors, such as UV rays and pollution. They can also help to reduce inflammation, calm redness, and soothe irritated skin.
That’s the joy of peptides, they are engineered to act in the way we choose. Its why peptides are so popular within skincare and pairing them with ingredients that further improve its benefits, which really makes them worthwhile.
There are also different types of peptides, including dipeptides (two amino acids), oligopeptides (three to ten amino acids), and polypeptides (more than ten amino acids). The sequence and length of amino acids in a peptide determines its specific function, and many peptides can be modified to alter the role, such as phosphorylation, glycosylation, and acetylation, to change their properties and activities.
Restoring Eye Serum
For instance – In Sapelo’s ‘Restoring Eye Serum’, it uses Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, known for its anti-oedema and anti-glycation effects. It works better because Acetylation of a protein can dramatically change the function of the peptide’s properties, including hydrophobicity (making it water hating), changing its solubility (how well its accepted in the skin) and can influence its interactions with other molecules (helping to increase efficacy of other ingredients).
Meaning it is absorbed better and even after washing your face, some active molecules may remain within the skin. It shows that technology continues to push the boundaries of skincare allowing more room to find the perfect product for you!
So, are peptides right for you? The answer is yes! And will always be yes! Peptides are suitable for all skin types and can help to improve the health and appearance of your skin, no matter your age or skin concerns.
Let me share some of my favourites and most interesting with you!
My all-time favourite is within Auteur’s Definitive Line Serum. It’s called ‘SYN®-AKE’ and like its name sounds, its inspired by a snake, specifically the Temple Viper. It’s a small synthetic polypeptide which mimics the protein in the viper's venom – Walgerin-1, which temporarily immobilizes facial micro contractions that cause fine lines and wrinkles. It does this by disabling the mnACh-receptor (neuromuscular junction). Giving that much loved feeling of taut skin.
It also includes Cyclopeptide-5, one of the first homodetic Cyclic Peptides, meaning that instead of a chain of amino acids, it’s been reengineered in the shape of a ring, designed to stimulate cell regeneration by mimicking communication between the cells! Leaving skin lifted, smooth and restructured.
Definitive Line Serum
With technology in Skincare ever advancing, sometimes it becomes a little bit complicated. However, sometimes the answer just lies in history:
Centella Asiatica, also known as the "longevity plant," is a plant species that has been used for centuries in traditional medicines and naturopathic approaches for its various health benefits. In recent years, researchers have been interested in Centella Asiatica and its potential role in preventing and reversing the signs of aging.
Within Ayuna’s Cream I and Cream II, they contain a peptidic fraction from Centella Asiatica. A peptidic fraction refers to a portion or a component of a complex mixture that contains peptides, essentially a specific group of peptides that have been isolated to have a much more specific effect on the skin. These super mini molecules have been shown to activate signalling functions that can help prevent and reverse signs of aging caused by Cellular Senescence.
This is a key biological process in ageing that occurs when cells become damaged and stop dividing, they also release factors that can damage surrounding healthy cells which contribute to overall ageing of all our tissues. Like that one bad grape in a pack which makes the rest of them go bad!
These little peptides help to protect our cells from damage and prevent this process from happening; they activate these signalling functions, which can help to keep our skin looking youthful and radiant for longer. Who doesn’t want that?
In recent years, the skincare industry has seen a surge in the popularity of peptides. These tiny amino acid chains have become one of the biggest buzzwords. Effective due to the fact they can penetrate the outer layers of the skin, allowing them to work their magic at a deeper level. Combined with other potent ingredients like hyaluronic acid or antioxidants or reengineered to combat skin concerns in accelerated ways, they create powerful formulations.
Thanks to advances in skincare technology, peptides are now more widely available than ever before, from serums to creams to masks, which makes it even easier to reap the benefits of these little powerhouse ingredients in any skincare routine.
So why not give them a try and see for yourself why peptides are taking the skincare world by storm? Your skin will thank you for it every time you use them!
By Andrew Yates
24TH FEB 2023