Discover everything you need to know about the cult classic P50 lotion, including its purpose, the benefits and its usage instructions to maximise its visible results.
The Ultimate Guide To The Lotion P50 Range
“I’ve heard that the Lotion P50 is amazing, tell me about it” – one of the most common discussions that we have with clients here at the Embassy of Beauty is regarding our cult exfoliating lotions – the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 range.
Often, beauty enthusiasts will have heard it being lauded as a must-have in magazines - it’s known as the best worldwide and has even been dubbed ‘a facial in a bottle.’
It’s true, it is a pretty special product. Here are some of the wonderful benefits these products have to offer:
· The hydroxy acids work to slough off dead skin cells and eliminate impurities, making it a powerful exfoliating lotion
· Tightens pores, making their appearance less visible
· Regulates sebum production and sebum secretion
· Unifies the complexion
· Hydrates, purifies and strengthens the skin
· Helps to balance the skin by regulating the pH levels
This is a product that’s really earned its stripes in skincare circles. It was first developed back in 1970 by the founder of Biologique Recherche Yvan Allouche.
The innovative chemist created these progressive lotions to facilitate a gentle but powerful daily exfoliation.
Biologique Recherche products are centred around epidermal reconditioning, and the name of this product is derived from "P" for peeling and "50" because
it takes two epidermal cycles, lasting 25 days on average, to achieve the first level of epidermal reconditioning required to renew the skin.
Because of the acidic pH of the lotions, they are multi-functional as they combine the benefits of a purifying, exfoliating, moisturising
and balancing the skin, all at once!
Exfoliation is a natural phenomenon during which the skin eliminates its dead cells – sometimes (particularly with age) this natural process slows down.
Boosting exfoliation is a technique commonly practiced in dermatology and cosmetics, which involves removing the outer layers of the epidermis.
The number of layers removed varies depending on the techniques used and happens within a matter of hours. The skin then repairs itself by secreting fatty acids
and cholesterol to cover the exfoliated area, after which skin cells multiply to replace the eliminated layer.
- Brighter Skin
- Smoother Skin
- Tighter, Smaller and Unclogged Pores
- Mattified Skin
Skincare just isn’t as simple as using the strongest products you can get your hands on, we are far more advanced than we have ever been before.
Biologique Recherche have spent over 50 years perfecting and developing four versions of the Lotion P50, so that you can enjoy the benefits of daily exfoliation, but in a personalised way. your results, as you would with your cleanser, serum or cream.
At the Embassy of Beauty, skin personalisation is everything! One size never fits all … and the strongest formulations don’t necessarily provide you with the best results. The formulation which is adapted to your skin type will provide you with the best results.
Each one of the Lotion P50s is packed with powerful ingredients to exfoliate and recondition the skin, but each Lotion P50 has been specially formulated for a different skin type. For example, the Lotion P50 (aka the pure version) is designed for thicker, keratinised skin, whereby the lotion has to penetrate through a thicker skin, so has to go stronger and faster; whereas the Lotion P50W is designed for normal skin, which isn’t as thick, and therefore penetrates the skin slower but the results, if you choose the correct formulation, are exactly the same.
Choosing the correct Lotion P50 for your skin type is crucial for optimal results and we are always happy to advise you!
THE MAIN INGREDIENTS:
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid
The activity of Alpha Hydroxy Acids is mainly to exfoliate the skin, to help the skin to shed dead skin. This action reveals a brighter, pore-free and more mattified complexion
- Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA): Salicylic Acid
Salicylic Acid can penetrate through pores and dissolve dead cells that are obstructing them. It also has amazing anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties … perfect for acne!
· Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA)
This acid has a larger molecular size than the other two, so it penetrates the skin really slowly, but works its magic for a longer period of time. Perfect for a more sensitive approach!
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
Niacinamide is an amazing ingredient, which strengthens the skin barrier function (link to blog) and therefore tightens pores, diminishes dullness and dramatically evens the skin tone.
- Cider Vinegar
This ingredient is the one that gives the lotion its distinctive smell! The tannins give it purifying and astringent properties, and it’s rich in fruit acids which regenerate the skin.
THE ONE FOR OILY BUT THINNER SKINS
Lotion P50W is perfect for those who are new to acids or anyone who is looking to balance oil secretion. Arnica is added to the original formula
to provide a soothing and calming effect to the skin. Lotion P50W penetrates the skin slowly, so its gentler approach is suitable for sensitive or thinner skin.
Don’t be fooled: Lotion P50W is just as powerful as the others!
This gentler variation of the classic formula is our best-seller.
THE ONE FOR DEVITALISED, MATURE & DEHYDRATED SKIN
Lotion P50V contains added vitamins and anti-ageing heroes like natural sponge and walnut extract.
It’s the best choice for duller and more mature skin.
Lotion P50V is more hydrating and restorative,
so should be the formula you reach for if you have dry skin.
THE ONE FOR LEATHERY KERATINISED SKIN
The Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 is the strongest form of P50.
It contains active ingredients such as thyme essential oil and myrrh for their purifying, toning, and antiseptic properties,
and is specifically formulated for thick or keratinised skin that needs a little more power to infiltrate the layers of the skin.
It’s also particularly good as a spot treatment on active and infected acne as it contains the highest concentrations of acids,
so it will burn through and eradicate the infection quickly.
LOTION P50 PIGM 400
THE ONE THAT TARGETS PIGMENTATION
Lotion P50 PIGM 400 contains added brightening ingredients and a host of antioxidants that unify the complexion,
reduce the size of pigmentation marks and prevent them from reappearing.
It contains wasabi extract and red algae– potent sources of vitamin C that protect and illuminate the skin.
If pigmentation is your primary skin concern, Lotion P50 PIGM 400 is for you.
With great power comes great responsibility, so let’s run through our top five tips for getting the most out of your Lotion P50.
- Apply it correctly
Use your Lotion P50 after your cleanser and before using serums or creams.
During the first two weeks of use, soak a dampened cotton pad with a few drops of your chosen Lotion P50 and dab it onto the face, neck and décolleté in upwards movements
(without rubbing and avoiding the eye area).
You will feel a slight tingling sensation, but no stinging or burning.
After a couple of weeks, switch to a dry cotton pad once you’ve established that your skin isn’t sensitive to the lotion.
- Don't use it alongside Retinol (Vitamin A)
Both Vitamin A (Retinol) and the chemical exfoliants in the Lotion P50 range stimulate cell renewal.
If you were to use them at the same time, it would lead to a host of problems, including sensitising your skin far too much, causing an imbalance or even burning the skin.
We are often asked if over the counter (as opposed to prescription) retinol is OK to use at the same time – it’s a no from us.
Simplify your routine and stop using Retinol for two weeks before you enjoy your chosen Lotion P50.
- Use the one that is right for you
As we’ve discussed, there are four personalised formulations to choose from – choose between the Lotion P50W, Lotion P50V, Lotion P50 PIGM 400 and Lotion P50 depending on your skin.
We are often asked for the Lotion P50 1970. This contains Phenol which is no longer in use in the UK and Europe, but the Lotion P50 is just as effective.
- ...And at the correct time of day
Acid exfoliants and the sun don’t mix, as you want your skin to be protected from UV rays.
We therefore recommend using the Lotions P50 in the evening over summer and wear SPF,
and leave it at home when you’re going somewhere hot – it will still be there when you get home from your holidays!
'Forget gritty exfoliators, here's a magic potion that will refresh your complexion.' India Knight, The Sunday Times
'My skin felt squeaky clean, glowing and hydrated all at once. The 'P' stands for peeling, and the lotion aims to renew the skin over 50 days, but you'll see results instantly.' Vanessa Jolly, The Times
'P50 PIGM 400 is one of my recent much-loved discoveries.' Funmi Fetto, Vogue
Please do let us know how you get on with trying them out!
Lots of love,
By Embassy of Beauty