The Lotions P50

Understanding Acids

Knowing a few of the key ingredients will give you a much better understanding as why the Lotion P50 is such a great product and why you should invest in a good quality exfoliator for your skin. 

The Lotion P50 chemically exfoliates with a range of acids to dissolve the glue-like substance that holds dead skin cells together at the surface of the skin, thus making it easier for us to remove the cells without having to use harsh manual exfoliation with scrubs and beaded exfoliators. Plus, they do not just remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, like scrubs do. This multifunctional lotion also helps purifies, regulate excess sebum, maintains the pH of the skin and reducing the appearance of dark spots and wrinkles. They’re a wonderful all-around treatment for the skin.

Read more about exfoliation here.


AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids) are a class of acids that are derived from natural food produce such as fruits, nuts, milk or sugars. They are hydrophilic (attracted to water) and break down the bonds between cells (desmosomes) to stimulate the desquamation process of corneocytes found on the surface of the stratum corneum, revealing the bright, healthy skin underneath and allowing your other products to penetrate deeper. The most commonly used AHA’s are:

  • lactic acid (derived from sour milk) is a powerful ingredient that helps reduce acne breakouts and the appearance of wrinkles and other signs of ageing. It is also quite hydrating and suitable for skins that are sensitive and prone to irritations.
  • glycolic acid (derived from sugars) is degreasing and so is effective for controlling sebum production. It can be quite harsh and so is not suitable for everyone.
  • malic acid (derived from apples) is hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration.
  • tartaric acid (derived from grapes) is an antioxidant.
  • mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds) helps control pigment and helps decrease pore size.
  • citric acid (derived from citrus fruits and corn) is anti-ageing, brightening and increases epidermal thickness.

BHA’s (beta hydroxy acids) slough off dead skin cells (keratolytic effect), cleanse the pores and regulate sebum. The most common of which is salicylic acid, is derived from willow tree bark, wintergreen oil or sweet birch. Because salicylic acid is lipophilic (attracted to oil) and keratolytic, it is able to penetrate the oils in the skin and clear out follicles of excess debris and skin cells, making it especially effective in the treatment of acneic skin conditions.

The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid is their solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore, which contains sebum, and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acids are better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads whilst alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.

PHA’s (poly hydroxy acids) are the newest, gentler form of AHA’s. Whilst it functions the same way, it causes less irritation due to their larger molecular size. They are especially beneficial in treating sensitive skin types that may not be able to tolerate AHAs. They provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well as assist with exfoliation. Some common PHA’s are:

  • lactobionic acid (derived from lactose found in cow’s milk) is humectant, soothing, and packed full of antioxidants.
  • galactose (a sugar utilised in glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis, and cell migration) may enhance wound healing.
  • gluconic acid (a naturally occurring ingredient in cells), also known as gluconolactone, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions while possessing exfoliating properties.

The Star Product

The Lotions P50 range, the most famous and coveted products,
are the keystone to any Biologique Recherche skin care regimen.

 All Lotions P50 have shared ingredients and so share many of the same benefits. Rich in alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acid (BHA), poly hydroxy acid (PHA), vitamin B3, phytic acid, sulphur, and magnesium chloride, they exfoliate, cleanse and maintain the pH of the epidermis, which helps to rebuild the epidermal barrier. It also prevents and treats in-growing hairs, and is therefore ideal for pre- and post-shaving skin care. The Lotions work gently on the skin over two epidermis renewal cycles (between 25-28 days each); the letter P stands for ‘peel’ and 50 stands for ’50 days’.

Biologique Recherche has four types, for different Skin Instants®; Lotion P50W, Lotion P50V, Lotion P50 PIGM 400 and Lotion P50, and each has their specificities.

Lotion P50W:
Skin Instants® For all Skins Instants. Great for sensitive skins or first-time users (do not apply on sensitive areas).
Specific active ingredients: arnica and soapbark extracts, burdock, horseradish and capsicum extracts, and reconstituted natural moisturising factor (NMF).
Actions: The Lotion P50W contains arnica, which has a soothing effect on the skin. This formula penetrates quite slowly, and therefore has a gentler approach that is suitable for thinner and normal Skin Instants®.

Lotion P50V:
Skin Instants®: For dull, mature Skins Instants.
Specific active ingredients: sponge, yeast, walnut, horseradish, burdock and capsicum extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50V has added vitamins in its formulation, to make this product more nourishing for more mature Skin Instants®.

Lotion P50:
Skin Instants®: For very thick, oily Skins Instants.
Specific active ingredients: myrrh, myrtle and onion extracts, thyme essential oil, burdock, horseradish and sorrel extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50 is the pure form of Lotion, it penetrates the skin quickly. It is formulated for thicker, seborrheic Skin Instants®.

Lotion P50 PIGM400:
Skin Instants®: For dull, pigmented Skin Instants.
Specific active ingredients: wasabi, palmaria palmata, complex of fruits titrated in flavonoids and AHA’s, australian finger lime and meadowsweet extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50 PIGM400 has added brightening active ingredients and antioxidants to unify the complexion, purify and hydrate it at the same time but also lighten the skin, reduce the size of pigmentation marks and prevent them from appearing.


Retinol, also known as Vitamin A, is a vitamin found in food and most commonly used in dietary supplements and skincare products. Retinol has grown in popularity in recent years earning a notable presence in the beauty market for its anti-ageing benefits and exfoliating effects similar to the hydroxy acids. The result of both is alike, but because the delivery is completely different, they don’t recognise each other. All Lotions P50 contain AHA's and are therefore not recommended to use with retinol-based products. Biologique Recherche has a gentler approach to skincare; all products are formulated to only act on the epidermis whereas retinol would affect your dermis and your skin DNA. Therefore, we would recommend you to choose which avenue you would like to follow, and if your chosen avenue is the Lotions P50, we would strongly recommend you cease usage of any retinol-containing products, a minimum of two weeks before using any Lotion P50. We feel that the combination of these two ingredients would sensitise the skin too much, and therefore create unbalance, which could appear in many different ways. Should you like any further advice on this matter, we are always happy to help via email and telephone.

Lotion P50 1970

We are regularly asked whether we stock the Lotion P50 1970. The controversy behind the Lotion P50 1970 is one main ingredient called ‘Phenol’. This ingredient is banned by the FDA in the UK and European Union. It is available in selected spas and stockists in the US but the Lotion P50 1970 is not available to purchase here in the UK. To counter this change, Biologique Recherche developed new formulations and the equivalent is the Lotion P50 pure. The slight name change does not hinder the effectiveness of the formula as the Lotion P50 is merely a phenol-free formula and is sold worldwide.

Common Questions

“Can I use the Lotion P50 on holiday?” YES. – We do not recommend using the Lotion P50 during the day where you will be exposed to UV rays but usage in the evening/night is fine. We also always advise to use SPF after using the Lotion P50.

“Will the Lotion P50 burn or sting?” – NO. The Lotion P50 is not meant to sting or burn upon application. A slight tingling sensation varies from client to client.

“Can I apply it both morning and night?” – YES. It is safe to use twice a day.

“How long do I need to wait to use the Lotion P50 if I use retinol?” At least 2 weeks.

“How often to exfoliate face?” The Lotion P50 is a daily face exfoliator. It can even be used morning and evening if necessary, depending on skin sensitivity.

 Extra Notes

  • There is a common misconception that you need to “work your way” up with the Lotion P50 range but Biologique Recherche’s approach is if it is working well for you then stick with the formula until your skin asks for something stronger. If you notice that you are not receiving the same results at the end of the bottle, compared to when you first started using it, only then a step up may be considered.
  • The correct way to use the Lotion P50 is to pat gently on the skin. Do not rub or swipe.


Contact us for more information

By Embassy of Beauty Admin