Exfoliating with acids, what is it all about? Industry experts and beauty enthusiasts have long been reaping the glow-boosting benefits of exfoliating with acids.
Why? Because they are the best and most effective way to gently renew your skin. I don’t know one person who doesn’t love the feel of soft newly exfoliated skin, however many manual scrubs and beaded exfoliators are often very harsh and stripping of your skin and can become addictive to use daily as many try to achieve that smooth finish. We have all been guilty of it! Therefore, it is imperative you invest in a good quality exfoliator for your skin!
Enter our Lotion P50! A much-coveted beauty essential, Lotion P50 has been highly praised for its renowned effectiveness:
In this blog I am going to explain why exfoliating with acids is far superior to manual exfoliation and talk to you about our multi-functional acids based exfoliating Lotion P50. Our range of Lotions P50 are a combination of AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids), BHA’s (beta hydroxy acids) and PHA’s (poly hydroxy acids) with a few other special ingredients I will explain. Don’t be apprehensive of the term ‘acid,’ those contained in the Lotions P50 in fact have many more benefits than exfoliation alone and there are a few different types which will perfect your skin differently.
Firstly, a little bit of quick science. The process of keratinization is the progression of new skins cells coming to the surface of your skin. Dull skin is caused by an accumulation of these dead skins cells which causes a lack-lustre, ash like complexion and these cells are held together by a glue-like substance. Secondly, the PH of your skin should actually be slightly acidic which helps it to fight off bacteria on the surface.
Now we have recapped on this, lets discuss the different types of acids contained in our Lotions P50 and how they work to purify, regulate excess sebum (oil), maintain the correct pH of your skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots and wrinkles. Lovingly known in the skincare world as the ‘miracle in a bottle’, they are a wonderful all-round treatment for your skin. So, to start, what are the different types of acids contained in the Lotions P50 and how do they work? Let’s discuss!
AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’S: What are they, how do they work and what are the benefits?
AHA’S & BHA’S, what’s the difference?
AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids) are a class of acids that are derived from natural food produce such as fruits, nuts, milk or sugars. They are hydrophilic (attracted to water) and break down the glue between cells working to gently remove the top layer of dead skin cells so new, healthy cells can come to the surface faster. This reveals the bright, healthy skin underneath and allows your other products to penetrate deeper. The most commonly used AHA’s are:
- lactic acid(derived from sour milk) is a powerful ingredient that helps reduce acne breakouts and the appearance of wrinkles and other signs of ageing. It is also quite hydrating and suitable for skins that are sensitive and prone to irritations.
- glycolic acid(derived from sugars) is degreasing and so is effective for controlling oil production. It can be quite harsh and so is not suitable for everyone.
- malic acid(derived from apples) is hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration.
- tartaric acid(derived from grapes) is an antioxidant.
- mandelic acid(derived from bitter almonds) helps control pigment and helps decrease pore size.
- citric acid(derived from citrus fruits and corn) is anti-ageing, brightening and increases epidermal thickness.
BHA’s (beta hydroxy acids) slough off dead skin cells, cleanse the pores and regulate oil. The most common of which is salicylic acid. Because salicylic acid is lipophilic (attracted to oil), it can penetrate the oils in your skin and clear out follicles where excess debris builds up causing you spots, making it especially effective in the treatment of acneic skin conditions.
The fact that BHA’s are attracted to oil means that they are better able to penetrate the pores which contains the excess oil and exfoliate dead skin cells that build up inside them. This makes BHA’s better for treating oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads. On the other hand, AHA’s are attracted to water and better at treating thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.
PHA’s (poly hydroxy acids) are the newest, gentler form of AHA’s. Whilst it functions the same way, it causes less irritation due to their larger molecular size. They are especially beneficial in treating sensitive skin types that may not be able to tolerate AHA’s. They provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well as assist with exfoliation. Some common PHA’s are:
- lactobionic acid(derived from lactose found in cow’s milk) is humectant which means it is retains and preserves water so is incredibly moisturising for your skin, soothing, and packed full of antioxidants.
- galactose (a sugar utilised in glycosaminoglycan, collagen synthesis, and cell migration) may enhance wound healing.
- gluconic acid(a naturally occurring ingredient in cells), also known as gluconolactone, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions while possessing exfoliating properties.
THE STAR PRODUCT
The Lotions P50 range is a famous cult classic and is the keystone to any skin care regimen.
What do they all contain?
All Lotions P50 are rich in alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acid (BHA), poly hydroxy acid (PHA), vitamin B3, phytic acid, sulphur, and magnesium chloride.
What do they do?
They exfoliate, cleanse and maintain the optimum pH of your skin and help to rebuild its epidermal barrier. It also prevents and treats in-growing hair so is ideal for pre- and post-shaving skin care. The Lotions work gently on the skin over two epidermis renewal cycles (between 25-28 days each); the letter P stands for ‘peel’ and 50 stands for ’50 days’.
How to use them?
You can use the Lotion P50 daily, morning and night after you cleanse which is why it is so fantastic! This means your skin is receiving a gently yet thorough exfoliation each day which isn’t too harsh and works with your skin to give it the best chance. There is no need for rubbing your skin with Lotion P50. Simply pat it on your skin. In the first two weeks of using Lotion P50, we advise you to wet a cotton pad with water and then add the Lotion P50 just to let your skin get used to it. After this time, you can apply to a dry cotton pad and keep enjoying the benefits.
Why are they so in demand?
Simply put, they just work! Partly because of their ingenuous formulations, but also because there are 4 different types of Lotion P50 to address different skins and different needs. One size never fits all … it’s all about adapting to YOUR individual skin, not the other way around.
Skin Instants®: For all Skin Instants. Great for sensitive skins or first-time users (do not apply on sensitive areas).
Specific active ingredients: arnica and soapbark extracts, burdock, horseradish and capsicum extracts, and reconstituted natural moisturising factor (NMF).
Actions: The Lotion P50W contains arnica, which has a soothing effect on the skin. This formula penetrates quite slowly, and therefore has a gentler approach that is suitable for thinner and normal Skin Instants®.
Skin Instants®: For dull, mature Skin Instants.
Specific active ingredients: sponge, yeast, walnut, horseradish, burdock and capsicum extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50V has added vitamins in its formulation, to make this product more nourishing for more mature Skin Instants®.
Skin Instants®: For very thick, oily Skin Instants.
Specific active ingredients: myrrh, myrtle and onion extracts, thyme essential oil, burdock, horseradish and sorrel extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50 is the pure form of Lotion, it penetrates the skin quickly. It is formulated for thicker, seborrheic Skin Instants®.
Skin Instants®: For dull, pigmented Skin Instants.
Specific active ingredients: wasabi, palmaria palmata, complex of fruits titrated in flavonoids and AHA’s, australian finger lime and meadowsweet extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50 PIGM400 has added brightening active ingredients and antioxidants to unify the complexion, purify and hydrate it at the same time but also lighten the skin, reduce the size of pigmentation marks and prevent them from appearing.
Other acids not found within our range or within the UK:
Retinol, also known as Vitamin A, has grown in popularity in recent years earning a notable presence in the beauty market for its anti-ageing benefits and exfoliating effects like the hydroxy acids. The result of both is alike, but because the delivery is completely different, they don’t recognise each other. All Lotions P50 contain AHA's and are therefore not recommended to use with retinol-based products.
Why is this? Biologique Recherche has a gentler approach to skincare; all products are formulated to act ONLY on the epidermis whereas retinol would affect the deeper layer of your skin (the dermis) and your skin DNA. It is up to you which path you choose to take, if it is Lotion P50 we strongly recommend that you stop using retinol products and allow two weeks before starting with the Lotion P50. This is because the combination would sensitise your skin too much and cause unbalance and when skin is unbalanced it can lead to a whole host of problems. Should you like any further advice on this matter, we are always happy to help via email and telephone.
LOTION P50 1970
We are regularly asked whether we stock the Lotion P50 1970. The controversy behind the Lotion P50 1970 is one main ingredient called ‘Phenol’. This ingredient is banned by the FDA in the UK and European Union. It is available in selected spas and stockists in the US but the Lotion P50 1970 is not available to purchase here in the UK. To counter this change, Biologique Recherche developed new formulations and the equivalent is the Lotion P50 pure. There is no difference in effectiveness, simply that it does not contain phenol and this version is available worldwide.
“Can I use the Lotion P50 on holiday?” YES. – We do not recommend using the Lotion P50 during the day where you will be exposed to UV rays but usage in the evening/night is fine.
“Will the Lotion P50 burn or sting?” – NO. The Lotion P50 is not meant to sting or burn upon application. A slight tingling sensation varies from client to client.
“Can I apply it both morning and evening?” – YES. It is safe to use twice a day, if your skin needs it.
“How long do I need to wait to use the Lotion P50 if I use retinol?” At least 2 weeks.
“How often should I exfoliate?” The Lotion P50 is a daily face exfoliator. It can even be used morning and evening if necessary, depending on your skin’s needs.
A FINAL NOTE!
There is a common misconception that you need to “work your way” up with the Lotions P50 range but Biologique Recherche’s approach is if it is working well for you then stick with the formula until your skin asks for something stronger. If you notice that you are not receiving the same results at the end of the bottle, compared to when you first started using it, then consider stepping up.As always, we are available by telephone or email to discuss any of your questions. We hope you enjoy using the Lotions P50 and now fully understand the power of exfoliating with acids!