Why is the Lotion P50 so coveted?

Industry experts and beauty enthusiasts alike have long been reaping the glow-boosting benefits of this chemical method of exfoliation! Compared to manual exfoliation (ie: scrubs), it is so much more gentle and effective as it is working from the inside to the outside of the skin, as opposed to just touching the surface.


What will the Lotion P50 do for me?


The plethora of acids held within the Lotion P50 work to gently but deeply exfoliate your skin over the course of 50 days (over 2 skin cycles).

Revealing a new, smooth and even skin.


The Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF) injected into these Lotions P50 work to gradually hydrate your skin.

Revealing a plumper and healthier complexion.


The Cider Vinegar held within the Lotions P50 provides an added boost to the Alpha, Beta and Poly Hydroxy Acids, brightening your skin.

Revealing a glowing and radiant complexion.


The Lotion P50 Range - Which one is your Perfect Match?

They have been praised by the many for their powerful results. You can be sure it will become an essential in your skincare regime immediately! There are a few different types within the range, each is just as powerful as the other, and each is formulated with a different skin concern in mind.


THE 4 types of lotions p50



The Lotion P50W is perfect for acid new-comers or for those of us who want to balance our oil secretion. Its special added ingredient of arnica has a soothing and calming effect on the skin. The Lotion P50W penetrates your skin quite slowly so it takes a gentler approach which makes it more suitable for thinner and a more sensitive skin, but don't be fooled, it's just as powerful as the others and is our most popular version!


The Lotion P50 PIGM400 contains added brightening ingredients and is packed full of antioxidants which unify the complexion, brighten the skin, reduce the size of pigmentation marks and prevents them from appearing or re-appearing! It contains the extra ingredients of wasabi extract and red algae, which are potent sources of vitamin C and work to illuminate the skin. If pigmentation is your woe, then the Lotion P50 PIGM400 is the one for you.


The Lotion P50V contains added vitamins and the anti-ageing ingredients of natural sponge and walnut extract, which make it the go-to choice for duller and more mature skins. The Lotion P50V is more nourishing and intensely restorative, so it will be your skins' best friend if it tends to be on the drier side.


The Lotion P50 is the purest form of all the Lotions P50. It contains the highest concentration of hydroxy acids and the purifying oil regulating ingredients of myrth, myrtle and onion extracts. This means it penetrates the skin quickly and so we recommend this for a thicker and overly oily skin.


'Forget gritty exfoliators, here's a magic potion that will refresh your complexion.'

India Knight, The Sunday Times

'My skin felt squeaky clean, glowing and hydrated all at once. The 'P' stands for peeling, and the lotion aims to renew the skin over 50 days, but you'll see results instantly.'

Vanessa Jolly, The Times

'P50 PIGM 400 is one of my recent much-loved discoveries.'

Funmi Fetto, Vogue


all you need to know about the lotions p50


What are the ingredients and how do they work?
All the Lotions P50 are rich in hydroxy acids, AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) and PHAs (poly hydroxy acids). I will explain fully a little later on these different types of hydroxy acids and their vast benefits for your skin. It doesn’t stop there. All the Lotions P50 also contain cider vinegar, which works to purify and regenerate your skin; sulfur for its exfoliating action and phytic acid which, not only renews yours skin but will also even out your complexion. Basically, they are a potent formula packed full of powerful ingredients that will make your skin feel and look its best.
They all work to gently exfoliate your skin over two epidermal renewal cycles (between 25-28 days each) while also cleansing it and maintaining the optimum pH of your skin. The letter P stands for ‘peel’ and 50 stands for ’50 days’.

How do you use them?
You can use the Lotions P50 daily, morning and night after you cleanse. There is no need for rubbing your skin with the Lotions P50. Simply pat the formula on your skin. In the first two weeks of using the Lotions P50, we advise you to wet a cotton pad with water and then add the lotion just to let your skin get used to it. After this time, you can apply to a dry cotton pad and keep enjoying the benefits.

Why are they so in demand?
Because they are amazing! There are also 4 versions of the Lotions P50. Each one is formulated with an added ingredient to address different skins and concerns. One size never fits all … it’s all about adapting to YOUR individual skin, not the other way around! It's literally a "Miracle in a Bottle".

so, AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’S. what are they? what's the difference? and what are their benefits for your skin?


Alpha hydroxy acids are a class of acids that are derived from natural food produce such as fruits, nuts, milk or sugars. They are hydrophilic (attracted to water) and break down the glue between cells working to gently remove the top layer of dead skin cells so new, healthy cells can come to the surface faster. This reveals the bright, healthy skin underneath and allows your other products to penetrate deeper. The most commonly used AHA’s are:

  • lactic acid(derived from sour milk) is a powerful ingredient that helps reduce acne breakouts and the appearance of wrinkles and other signs of ageing. It is also quite hydrating and suitable for skins that are sensitive and prone to irritations.
  • glycolic acid(derived from sugars) is degreasing and so is effective for controlling oil production. It can be quite harsh and so is not suitable for everyone.
  • malic acid(derived from apples) is hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration.
  • tartaric acid(derived from grapes) is an antioxidant.
  • mandelic acid(derived from bitter almonds) helps control pigment and helps decrease pore size.
  • citric acid(derived from citrus fruits and corn) is anti-ageing, brightening and increases epidermal thickness.



Beta hydroxy acids slough off dead skin cells, cleanse the pores and regulate oil. The most common of which is salicylic acid. Because salicylic acid is lipophilic (attracted to oil), it can penetrate the oils in your skin and clear out follicles where excess debris builds up causing you spots, making it especially effective in the treatment of acneic skin conditions.

The fact that BHA’s are attracted to oil means that they are better able to penetrate the pores which contains the excess oil and exfoliate dead skin cells that build up inside them. This makes BHA’s better for treating oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads. On the other hand, AHA’s are attracted to water and better at treating thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.



Poly hydroxy acids are the newest, gentler form of AHA’s. Whilst it functions the same way, it causes less irritation due to their larger molecular size. They are especially beneficial in treating sensitive skin types that may not be able to tolerate AHA’s. They provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well as assist with exfoliation. Some common PHA’s are:

  • lactobionic acid(derived from lactose found in cow’s milk) is humectant which means it is retains and preserves water so is incredibly moisturising for your skin, soothing, and packed full of antioxidants.
  • galactose (a sugar utilised in glycosaminoglycan, collagen synthesis, and cell migration) may enhance wound healing.
  • gluconic acid(a naturally occurring ingredient in cells), also known as gluconolactone, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions while possessing exfoliating properties.

other acids not found within our range or within the uk:


Retinol, also known as Vitamin A, has grown in popularity in recent years earning a notable presence in the beauty market for its anti-ageing benefits and exfoliating effects like the hydroxy acids. The result of both is alike, but because the delivery is completely different, they don’t recognise each other. All the Lotions P50 contain AHA's and are therefore not recommended to use with retinol-based products.

Why is this? Biologique Recherche has a gentler approach to skincare; all products are formulated to act ONLY on the epidermis whereas retinol would affect the deeper layer of your skin (the dermis) and your skin DNA. It is up to you which path you choose to take, if it is the Lotions P50 we strongly recommend that you stop using retinol products and allow two weeks before starting with any of the Lotions P50. This is because the combination would sensitise your skin too much and cause unbalance and when skin is unbalanced it can lead to a whole host of problems. Should you like any further advice on this matter, we are always happy to help via email and telephone.

LOTION P50 1970

We are regularly asked whether we stock the Lotion P50 1970. The controversy behind the Lotion P50 1970 is one main ingredient called ‘Phenol’. This ingredient is banned by the FDA in the UK and European Union. It is available in selected spas and stockists in the US but the Lotion P50 1970 is not available to purchase here in the UK. To counter this change, Biologique Recherche developed new formulations and the equivalent is the Lotion P50 pure. There is no difference in effectiveness, simply that it does not contain phenol and this version is available worldwide.


“Can I use the Lotions P50 on holiday?” YES. – We do not recommend using the Lotions P50 during the day where you will be exposed to UV rays but usage in the evening/night is fine.

“Will the Lotions P50 burn or sting?” – NO. The Lotions P50 are not meant to sting or burn upon application. A slight tingling sensation varies from client to client.

“Can I apply them both morning and evening?” – YES. It is safe to use them twice a day, if your skin needs it.

“How long do I need to wait to use the Lotions P50 if I use retinol?” At least 2 weeks.

“How often should I exfoliate?” The Lotions P50 are daily face exfoliators. They can even be used morning and evening if necessary, depending on your skin’s needs.


There is a common misconception that you need to “work your way” up with the Lotions P50 range but Biologique Recherche’s approach is if it is working well for you then stick with the formula until your skin asks for something stronger. If you notice that you are not receiving the same results at the end of the bottle, compared to when you first started using it, then consider stepping up.

As always, we are available by telephone on 020 3358 9997 or email at concierge@embassyofbeauty.co.uk to discuss any of your questions. We hope you enjoy using the Lotions P50 and now fully understand the power of exfoliating with acids!

By Embassy of Beauty Admin