Throughout the beauty world, Retinol has been a star ingredient people are either scared of or cannot live without. Although, there are many different types of retinols, available in different strengths and derivatives. Prescription Retinol is usually Retinoic Acid, this includes your Tretinoin or Retin-A’s.
HOW TO REALLY CURE YOUR ACNE
Flare-ups, breakouts, acne, blackheads, congestion, oiliness, and the million other terms used for this unwanted affliction are all down to a simple truth, the skin is unbalanced.
Unbalanced Skin
Every part of our lives requires balance, whether it be a work/life balance or an unhealthy/healthy diet (we can’t all live on kale for years without any chocolate!), so why wouldn't our skin also need balance? For our skin to be balanced, we need to have the following trifecta:
- Balanced Hydration Levels (water)
- Balanced Lipid Levels (oils)
- Protection (antioxidants)
My experience and training have always compounded the fact that every skin is different, so although the trifecta is absolutely true, how much of each element individual skin needs is always different. This is the bit where professional advice is needed, but you also need to listen to your skins’ needs, watch how it reacts and adjust the levels accordingly.
Unbalanced skin also requires strict routines over a minimum of a 2-month period to achieve the results you’re looking for. Breaking the routine will result in unbalancing the skin again, so I like to think of it like taking a course of antibiotics; if you stop sooner than your course requires, your body isn’t strong enough to fight the infection. The same is true for an unbalanced skin, you need to achieve the balance to strengthen your skin, otherwise it reverts back to its unbalanced state all too quickly.
Step 1: Cleansing
The quality of a cleanser is often thought of as unimportant. The reason being that it is washed off quite quickly and doesn’t stay on the skin long enough to have much impact. Although I understand this logical explanation, experience has shown me that it isn’t quite correct. I believe that the key to balancing my own skin was switching from a gel cleanser to a cleansing milk. Cleansing is also the foundation of any skincare routine; although it is rinsed off, it prepares your skin for the next steps of your routine and does leave some valuable residue behind.
Biologique Recherche’s Lait U is our absolute go-to as the first step in balancing the skin. This cleansing milk contains various nut oils which act as magnets to gently coax the oil and dirt from your skin without drying it out.
For all acne-prone skins
Lait U
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Step 2: Toning
The essential second step helps to balance and purify the skin, setting the stage for active ingredients to work their magic. While this step is an excellent opportunity to incorporate daily exfoliation into your routine, you want to be careful to not start off too strong— too harsh an exfoliant can cause irritation and make your skin produce more oil, causing more congestion or acne.
The Lotion P50W is almost always the formulation we recommend for unbalanced skin. While all the Lotion P50 formulations arrive at the same destination, they get there in different ways. Lotion P50W takes the gentlest route, giving you all the benefit of a chemical exfoliant without risk of irritation.
For all acne-prone skins
Lotion P50W
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If you’d prefer something even gentler, Ayuna’s Facial Low utilises a trio of acid alternatives to purify the skin. Its probiotic, colloidal system (power-in-lotion) prevents discomfort while maintaining an optimum pH range to effectively renew and smooth skin texture.
For oily skins
Émulsion Originelle Régenérante
BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE
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The Facial Low
AYUNA
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Step 3: Masking
Applying a mask 2-3 times a week when you’re trying to cure a skin concern such as acne/congestion/unbalance is vital. There are several masks we reccomend for these type of skin concerns.
MASQUE VIVANT
The living mask is named as such because it contains yeast, which will eat away at bacteria and dead skin, unclogging your pores, sanitising your skin, infusing it with antioxidants and purifying it at the same time. However, this mask is generally too strong for sensitive skin or inflamed/infected active acne.
For congested & oily skins
Masque Vivant
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BIOMAGIC MASK
This clay-based mask is a suitable option for those with active acne. It focuses on purifying skin and tightening pores, but it doesn’t contain yeast, so it is much gentler.
For active acne
Biomagic Mask
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BALM BY AYUNA
This volcanic revitalising mask absorbs excess oil and mattifies the skin without drying it out, making it a great choice for anyone in search of balanced skin. It deeply detoxifies while still nourishing the skin and softening texture.
For congested & oily skins
Balm
AYUNA
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Step 4: Serums
Serums are an important step in your skincare routine. They have high levels of active ingredients and their liquid texture contains smaller molecules which penetrate the skin more effectively than products that sit on top of the skin.
COMPLEXE IRIBIOL
This anti-inflammatory and antibacterial serum is perfect for active acne. Reserve it for targeted areas when you feel a spot forming– if you time it right, the spot might not come to the surface at all. You can also use it as an all-over treatment to regulate oil production; however, it can be quite drying so listen to your skin and stop when needed.
For active acne
Complexe Iribiol
BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE
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SERUM EXTRAITS TISSULAIRES
This hydrating serum will help to restore the skin’s water levels and regulate sebum, making it a perfect solution for oily, acne-prone skin that needs a big drink of water to retain balance.
For all acne-prone skins
Serum Extraits Tissulaires
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SERUM ISO-PLACENTA
Containing the well-known healing properties of placenta, this vegan serum will repair any damage that congestion has caused. It will help to reconstruct the skin and eliminate acne marks while regulating oil production.
For all acne-prone skins
Serum Iso-Placenta
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Step 5: Cream
As the final step in a routine, a moisturiser will treat the skin and form a protective layer on its surface to keep it balanced. There are plenty of options, so creams can be divided into day and night. Day creams can be used twice a day, but night creams are likely too much tor daytime use– they might be too heavy for comfortable daily wear or contain acids that could sensitise the skin in the sun.
DAY CREAMS
CREME ISO-PLACENTA
This is one of our most popular creams. It’s the moisturiser form of Serum Placenta, so it’s highly repairing and a fantastic option if you’re seeking to eliminate post-acne pigmentation. However, it’s also non-comedogenic, so it will deliver light hydration and brighten the skin without clogging pores.
For all acne-prone skins
Creme Iso-Placenta
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CREME COLLAGENE
Crème Collagène is loaded with collagen segment and BR phyto complex to balance the skin, tightens pores & improves skin texture. It will leave your skin mattified and toned.
For oily skins
Creme Collagene
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NIGHT CREAMS
CREME DERMOPURIFIANTE
Creme Dermopurifiante is our most sought-after acne cream. This nighttime treatment will purge your skin as you sleep, bringing all the oil and bacteria to the surface of the skin, so that by the time you wake up, you simply have to wash it all off with your cleanser. Containing antioxidants and exfoliating acids, it also has a host of ingredients that will regulate oil, purify, minimise inflammation and stimulate skin regeneration. It’s an ideal choice for anyone suffering from moderate to severe acne.
For moderate to severe acne
Creme Dermopurifiante
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CREME AUX ACIDES DES FRUITS
Utilising a cocktail of fruit acids to resurface the skin, this serves as somewhat of a cream version of Lotion P50. It’s a potent cream that is recommended as a post-acne treatment to repair pigmentation and scarring. It can also be used to target specific problem areas.
For post-acne scarring (not for active acne)
Creme Aux Acides Des Fruits
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Final Note
In this article, I’ve gone through our main product recommendations for unbalanced skin; however, it’s always best to be consulted by a skin professional. Contact us via phone (020 3358 9998) or email to speak to a highly trained skin consultant. Alternatively, you can take our Advanced Skin Analysis, a comprehensive quiz that has been carefully calibrated to instruct you on the best products available to address your skin concerns.
By Embassy of Beauty