Biologique Recherche’s iconic Lotions P50 use acids to chemically exfoliate the skin. But what exactly does that mean and how does it work? Understanding Lotion P50’s key ingredients will show you why this method is so effective.

THE STRONG ONE

The Lotion P50 is the purest form of all the Lotions P50. It contains the highest concentration of hydroxy acids and oil-regulating ingredients like myrth, myrtle and onion extracts. This means it penetrates the skin quickly, so we recommend this for a thicker and overly oily skin.

'Forget gritty exfoliators, here's a magic potion that will refresh your complexion.'
India Knight, The Sunday Times

'My skin felt squeaky clean, glowing and hydrated all at once. The 'P' stands for peeling, and the lotion aims to renew the skin over 50 days, but you'll see results instantly.'
Vanessa Jolly, The Times

'P50 PIGM 400 is one of my recent much-loved discoveries.'
Funmi Fetto, Vogue

All the Lotions P50 are rich in hydroxy acids: AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) and PHAs (poly hydroxy acids). All the Lotions P50 also contain cider vinegar, which purifies and regenerates the skin; sulphur, for its exfoliating action, and phytic acid, which renews the skin and evens out the complexion.

These potent formulas are packed full of powerful ingredients that will make your skin look and feel its best.
They all work to gently exfoliate your skin over two epidermal renewal cycles (between 25-28 days each) while also cleansing and maintaining the optimum pH of your skin.

The letter P stands for ‘peel’ and 50 stands for ’50 days’.

You can use the Lotions P50 daily, morning and night after you cleanse. There is no need for rubbing your skin with the Lotions P50. Simply pat the formula on your skin. In the first two weeks of using the Lotions P50, we advise you to wet your cotton pad with water to dilute the lotion. Once your skin has adjusted to the exfoliant, you can apply it to a dry cotton pad and keep enjoying the benefits.

AHAs

- Alpha hydroxy acids are a class of acids that are derived from natural food products such as fruits, nuts, milk or sugars. They are hydrophilic, meaning they are attracted to water, and break down the glue between cells to gently remove the top layer of dead skin cells so new, healthy cells can come to the surface faster. This reveals bright, healthy skin underneath and allows your other products to penetrate more effectively.

Some AHAs you’ll find in the various Lotions P50 formulas:

- Lactic Acid (derived from sour milk) is a powerful ingredient that helps reduce acne breakouts and the appearance of wrinkles and other signs of ageing. It is also quite hydrating and suitable for skins that are sensitive and prone to irritation.

- Malic Acid (derived from apples) is hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration.

- Mandelic Acid (derived from bitter almonds) helps control pigment and decrease pore size.

- Citric Acid (derived from citrus fruits and corn) is anti-ageing, brightening and increases epidermal thickness.

PHAs

- Poly hydroxy acids are the newest, gentlest form of AHAs. While these acids functions the same way, they causes less irritation due to their larger molecular size. They are especially beneficial in treating sensitive skin types that may not be able to tolerate typical AHAs. They provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well as assist with exfoliation.

- Gluconic acid is found in all of the Lotions P50. Also known as gluconolactone, it is a naturally-occurring ingredient that has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions while possessing exfoliating properties.

BHAs

- Beta hydroxy acids slough off dead skin cells, cleanse the pores and regulate oil. The most common of which is salicylic acid. Because salicylic acid is lipophilic (attracted to oil), it can penetrate the oils in your skin and clear out follicles where excess debris builds up causing you spots, making it especially effective in the treatment of acneic skin conditions, including oily skin, blackheads and whiteheads.

- On the other hand, AHAs are attracted to water, so they’re better at treating thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.

We are regularly asked whether we stock the Lotion P50 1970. The controversy behind the Lotion P50 1970 stems from the inclusion of one main ingredient called ‘Phenol’, which is banned by the FDA in the UK and European Union. It is available in select spas and stockists in the US, but the Lotion P50 1970 is not available to purchase here in the UK. To counter this change, Biologique Recherche developed new formulations and the equivalent is the classic Lotion P50. There is no difference in effectiveness, it simply does not contain phenol and this version is available worldwide.

- Can I use the Lotions P50 on holiday?
YES. We do not recommend using the Lotions P50 during the day where you will be exposed to UV rays but usage in the evening/night is fine.

- Will the Lotions P50 burn or sting?
NO. The Lotions P50 are not meant to sting or burn upon application. A slight tingling sensation varies from client to client.

- Can I apply them both morning and evening?
YES. It is safe to use them twice a day, if your skin needs it.

- How long do I need to wait to use the Lotions P50 if I use retinol?
At least 2 weeks.

- How often should I exfoliate?
The Lotions P50 are daily face exfoliants. They can even be used morning and evening, depending on your skin’s needs.

There is a common misconception that you need to “work your way up” with the Lotions P50 range. Biologique Recherche’s approach is if it is working well for you then stick with your chosen formula until your skin asks for something stronger. If you notice that you are not receiving the same results at the end of the bottle compared to when you first started using it, then consider switching to a stronger formula.

By Embassy of Beauty