Explaining everything you need to know about the Lotion P50 range. Find out which Lotion P50 is best for you


Biologique Recherche’s iconic Lotions P50 use acids to chemically exfoliate the skin. But what exactly does that mean and how does it work? Understanding Lotion P50’s key ingredients will show you why this method is so effective.


Why is the Lotion P50 so coveted?

Lauded for its glowing skin benefits, Lotion P50 is a beloved staple in the routines of industry experts and beauty enthusiasts across the globe. While some people might be intimidated by the thought of using acids on their face, they need not be: chemical exfoliation is a gentler alternative to abrasive manual exfoliation and it’s actually more effective. Chemical exfoliants work from the inside out by accelerating cell turnover, rather than just touching the surface of the skin.  

What will the Lotion P50 do for me?

Lotion P50’s balanced cocktail of acids work to efficiently exfoliate your skin over the course of fifty days (two skin cycles) to reveal fresh, smooth and even skin.

The Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF) included in these Lotions P50 work to gradually hydrate your skin to reveal a plumper, healthier complexion.

Cider vinegar adds a brightening boost to Lotion P50’s blend of Alpha, Beta, and Poly Hydroxy Acids to reveal a glowing, radiant complexion.

Which P50 should I use?

In addition to the classic Lotion P50, there are formulas for each skin types. While they are all equally effective, it’s important to select the right Lotion P50 to treat your specific concerns.

The Four Types of Lotions P50


Lotion P50W is perfect for those who are new to acids or anyone who is looking to balance oil secretion. Arnica is added to the original formula to provide a soothing and calming effect to the skin. Lotion P50W penetrates the skin slowly, so its gentler approach is suitable for sensitive or thinner skin. Don’t be fooled: Lotion P50W is just as powerful as the others! This gentler variation of the classic formula is our best-seller.



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Lotion P50 PIGM400 contains added brightening ingredients and a host of antioxidants that unify the complexion, reduce the size of pigmentation marks and prevent them from reappearing. It contains wasabi extract and red algae– potent sources of vitamin C that protect and illuminate the skin. If pigmentation is your primary skin concern, Lotion P50 PIGM400 is for you.

Lotion P50 PIGM 400


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Lotion P50V contains added vitamins and anti-ageing heroes like natural sponge and walnut extract. It’s the best choice for duller and more mature skin. Lotion P50V is more hydrating and restorative, so should be the formula you reach for if you have dry skin.

Lotion P50V


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Lotion P50V


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The Lotion P50 is the purest form of all the Lotions P50. It contains the highest concentration of hydroxy acids and oil-regulating ingredients like myrth, myrtle and onion extracts. This means it penetrates the skin quickly, so we recommend this for a thicker and overly oily skin.

Lotion P50


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Lotion P50


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'Forget gritty exfoliators, here's a magic potion that will refresh your complexion.'
India Knight, The Sunday Times

'My skin felt squeaky clean, glowing and hydrated all at once. The 'P' stands for peeling, and the lotion aims to renew the skin over 50 days, but you'll see results instantly.'
Vanessa Jolly, The Times

'P50 PIGM 400 is one of my recent much-loved discoveries.'
Funmi Fetto, Vogue

What Are The Ingredients?

All the Lotions P50 are rich in hydroxy acids: AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) and PHAs (poly hydroxy acids). All the Lotions P50 also contain cider vinegar, which purifies and regenerates the skin; sulphur, for its exfoliating action, and phytic acid, which renews the skin and evens out the complexion.

These potent formulas are packed full of powerful ingredients that will make your skin look and feel its best.
They all work to gently exfoliate your skin over two epidermal renewal cycles (between 25-28 days each) while also cleansing and maintaining the optimum pH of your skin.

The letter P stands for ‘peel’ and 50 stands for ’50 days’.

How Do You Use Them?

You can use the Lotions P50 daily, morning and night after you cleanse. There is no need for rubbing your skin with the Lotions P50. Simply pat the formula on your skin. In the first two weeks of using the Lotions P50, we advise you to wet your cotton pad with water to dilute the lotion. Once your skin has adjusted to the exfoliant, you can apply it to a dry cotton pad and keep enjoying the benefits.

AHAs, BHAs and PHAs:


- Alpha hydroxy acids are a class of acids that are derived from natural food products such as fruits, nuts, milk or sugars. They are hydrophilic, meaning they are attracted to water, and break down the glue between cells to gently remove the top layer of dead skin cells so new, healthy cells can come to the surface faster. This reveals bright, healthy skin underneath and allows your other products to penetrate more effectively.

Some AHAs you’ll find in the various Lotions P50 formulas:

- Lactic Acid (derived from sour milk) is a powerful ingredient that helps reduce acne breakouts and the appearance of wrinkles and other signs of ageing. It is also quite hydrating and suitable for skins that are sensitive and prone to irritation.

- Malic Acid (derived from apples) is hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration.

- Mandelic Acid (derived from bitter almonds) helps control pigment and decrease pore size.

- Citric Acid (derived from citrus fruits and corn) is anti-ageing, brightening and increases epidermal thickness.


- Poly hydroxy acids are the newest, gentlest form of AHAs. While these acids functions the same way, they causes less irritation due to their larger molecular size. They are especially beneficial in treating sensitive skin types that may not be able to tolerate typical AHAs. They provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well as assist with exfoliation.

- Gluconic acid is found in all of the Lotions P50. Also known as gluconolactone, it is a naturally-occurring ingredient that has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions while possessing exfoliating properties.



- Beta hydroxy acids slough off dead skin cells, cleanse the pores and regulate oil. The most common of which is salicylic acid. Because salicylic acid is lipophilic (attracted to oil), it can penetrate the oils in your skin and clear out follicles where excess debris builds up causing you spots, making it especially effective in the treatment of acneic skin conditions, including oily skin, blackheads and whiteheads.

- On the other hand, AHAs are attracted to water, so they’re better at treating thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.

Lotion P50 1970

We are regularly asked whether we stock the Lotion P50 1970. The controversy behind the Lotion P50 1970 stems from the inclusion of one main ingredient called ‘Phenol’, which is banned by the FDA in the UK and European Union. It is available in select spas and stockists in the US, but the Lotion P50 1970 is not available to purchase here in the UK. To counter this change, Biologique Recherche developed new formulations and the equivalent is the classic Lotion P50. There is no difference in effectiveness, it simply does not contain phenol and this version is available worldwide.

Common Questions

- Can I use the Lotions P50 on holiday?
YES. We do not recommend using the Lotions P50 during the day where you will be exposed to UV rays but usage in the evening/night is fine.

- Will the Lotions P50 burn or sting?
NO. The Lotions P50 are not meant to sting or burn upon application. A slight tingling sensation varies from client to client.

- Can I apply them both morning and evening?
YES. It is safe to use them twice a day, if your skin needs it.

- How long do I need to wait to use the Lotions P50 if I use retinol?
At least 2 weeks.

- How often should I exfoliate?
The Lotions P50 are daily face exfoliants. They can even be used morning and evening, depending on your skin’s needs.

Final Note

There is a common misconception that you need to “work your way up” with the Lotions P50 range. Biologique Recherche’s approach is if it is working well for you then stick with your chosen formula until your skin asks for something stronger. If you notice that you are not receiving the same results at the end of the bottle compared to when you first started using it, then consider switching to a stronger formula.

By Embassy of Beauty


By Embassy of Beauty