Skincare has become extremely accessible over the past few decades. Beauty enthusiasts are becoming increasingly aware of ingredients and how they work, allowing them to make informed choices when it comes to what they put on their skin. However, with those choices, there has also been an uptick in cases of skin sensitivity.

What Is The Difference?

Here at Embassy of Beauty, we have consulted quite a few clients who suffer from a compromised skin barrier, aka, reactive skin. Yet despite the overuse of acids, retinoids and other actives, there are those who have naturally sensitive skin. So, what’s the difference? And how can you tell which category you fall under this autumn?

Sensitive Skin

We like to think of sensitive skin as something you’re born with. Perhaps you may have noticed your face has been periodically flushed with colour since childhood. And chances are, if you look around your family tree, you’re not the only who with that rosy hue. Sensitive skin is genetically predisposed, and can appear as a simple red flush or as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis or other inflammatory skin conditions. With sensitivity, you’re oftentimes stuck with the unpleasant sensations that come with it, such as itching, burning or stinging, and can only lessen the symptoms with product use.

Reactive Skin

While on the other hand, the key to reactive skin is all in the name. With this condition, your skin tends to “react” to external stimuli. For example, when the wind is blowing a bit too hard, or if your soup has extra spice to it, your face may start to tingle, and even become slightly red. In many cases though, those with reactive skin have a compromised skin barrier. There can be many reasons for this, some of which are through improper use of products, via fluctuations in weather, due to hormone imbalances, and a plethora of others.

Interestingly enough, both skin conditions, sensitive and reactive, can and do overlap. Oftentimes rosacea flareups have been triggered by changes in weather, such as what we’re currently experiencing here in London.

If your level of sensitivity depends on the external environment, ask yourself if this has always been the case. If it’s a new development, chances are you probably wrecked havoc on your skin barrier via product, such as harsh surfactants. Cleansing is the first step of your routine, but when done improperly it can affect the way other products work too. Biologique Recherche Lait E.V. is a wonderful cleanser for both sensitive and reactive skin types. Coconut Derived Esters gently remove impurities that can irritate skin, while Essential Fatty Acids contained in its Avocado and Luffa Seed Oils help to replenish the lipid barrier whilst you cleanse.

Cold Weather

Regardless of how, we think it’s important to explain why the weather, especially when it’s cold, affects those with some form of skin sensitivity. Air that has a low temperature, also has a lower amount of humidity. With less moisture in the air, the surrounding environment looks for it elsewhere, including in your skin. This phenomenon is known as trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), where your skin essentially loses water through its surface. When the skin's water content falls below 10%, you may end up with dry and reddened skin. Key symptoms of both sensitive and reactive skin.

And because of the colder weather outdoors, we tend to turn up the heat when we’re inside. These constant temperature fluctuations can trigger inflammatory mediators, such as the stimulation of mast cells. These cells release histamine (hay fever anyone?), leading to swelling, itching and even more redness.

Protecting your skin from these factors is the first step in achieving a less sensitive visage. And that starts with preserving and balancing your epidermal barrier. After cleansing, the use of an appropriate toner can make a huge difference on how quickly your skin bounces back after environmental damage. For those with sensitive skin, the Irene Forte Helichrysum Toner is a gentle non-exfoliating toner, that works to balance the skin. It contains natural moisturising factors such as urea and sodium PCA, that help to soothe skin after your cleanse. With a powerful Sugar-Based Humectant, Saccharide Isomerate, that has been shown to hydrate skin for up to 72 hours.

Skin Balancing Is Important

We place a high significance on skin balancing. When skin is imbalanced, not only is it harder to target specific concerns like wrinkles or pigmentation, but it also allows room for a higher level of skin sensitivity. A healthy skin microbiome is imperative for a properly functioning epidermal barrier. Microbiota on skin create a physical and chemical barrier which protects it from harmful pathogens. Not only that, but they also interact closely with the body's immune system, modulating inflammatory responses and preventing the skin from overreacting to environmental stimuli.

Ayuna Facial Low is a great option for reactive skin types, containing Lactobacillus Ferment that works to balance the skins microbiome. An innovative colloidal system ensures the exfoliating Amino Acids are gently released to reduce the chances of irritation.

No matter what side of sensitivity you fall under, we always recommend conducting a patch test with every new product. Especially if your skin is reactive. As much as we love launching new brands for our Beauty Ambassadors to try, the truth is, you never really know which ingredients may trigger your inflammatory responses. And because skin is constantly changing, an active that you previously found tolerable, could suddenly be, well, intolerable.

Patch Testing

Patch testing can not only prevent undesirable surprises, but also gives you a better idea of what your skin can handle, without causing any significant damage. Carrying out patch tests for highly active products, such as face masks, is especially important. Even for masks formulated with sensitive skin in mind, such as the Irene Forte Almond Face Scrub. This creamy scrub-mask buffs away dead, flaky cells with Almond and Hazelnut Granules, which can sometimes plague those with eczema or other dry skin conditions. Shea Butter, Aloe Vera Juice and Olive Oil nourish delipidated skin, leaving it soft and moisturised with continued use.

If your skin is in need of absolute nourishment, repair and reconstruction, the Biologique Recherche Crème Masque Vernix VG is undoubtedly what you need. Hydrolysed Wheat and Barley proteins strengthen the skin, working in tandem with Peptides, Ceramides and Yeast to restore the epidermal barrier. We absolutely love this mask for its dual application method. Simply apply a thick layer for 10 to 20 minutes for an immediately soothing masking treatment, or a thinner layer as a nightly reparative, hydrating cream.

Hydration is Key

And how we LOVE hydrating products! Keeping skin adequately hydrated allows the healthy bacteria in your microbiome to do their job. Following your weekly face mask treatments, apply a hydrating serum to infuse your skin with humectants this wind-blown autumn.

Sapelo’s Renewing Serum renews sensitive skin with fermented marine bacteria, and drenches cells with a 4% concentration of multiple molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid. It’s blend of cell-stimulating Growth Factors, are a saviour for compromised skin, helping to soothe, calm, and regenerate.

Also great at alleviating reactive skin symptoms, is the Venn Age-Response Compound K Hyaluronic Booster K. Featuring patented water soluble Ginsenoside, derived from Ginseng Root, this powerful ingredient strengthens the appearance of skin. Packed with 5 types of Medium- and High-weight Hyaluronic Acid molecules, this serum refreshes and repairs, alleviating feelings of discomfort along the way.

Additives in Skincare

One great thing about the strides made in skincare over the years, is how much we have come to understand how ingredients interact with skin. Additives such as fragrances, have been shown to do all harm, and no good. Products rich in artificial fragrance can irritate skin, causing reactions such as itching and redness. To avoid any unpleasant side effects, we always recommend reaching for a fragrance-free option if you have sensitive or reactive skin. Fragrances can contain over 50 different components, such as Limonene, which can make it hard to pinpoint which ingredient may be triggering your inflammatory responses.

Biologiue Recherche’s Emulsion Gel Biosensible is a fragrance-free moisturiser formulated to soothe sensitive skin. Himalayan Mushrooms and Polysaccharides restore fragile skin. Xylitol, a plant-based sugar, supplements the natural moisturising factors in the skin. Calming and protective, black currant, Sacha Inci, and London Rocket Seed Oils gradually restore the strength of the skin.

If product over use has left you a tad red, the Ayuna Cream III contains a host of ingredients to calm reactive skin. An ultra luxe emulsion, Candelilla, Jojoba and Rice Bran Esters moisturise without weighing down skin. Turmeric Root derived Stem Cells signal repair, allowing skin to regenerate. While Cannabis Micro-Lipids further enhance barrier protection, leaving skin stronger and able to withstand daily environmental stressors.

Understanding Your Skin

Understanding your skin is essential for correct product use. But we know how difficult it can be with countless options to choose from. That is why at Embassy of Beauty, we work overtime to bring the best products to our Ambassadors, taking out the guesswork, and allowing you to enjoy beautiful skin.

As always, we appreciate you taking the time to read, and if you have any questions, feel free to pop in for tea and a chat.