Here at Embassy of Beauty, one of our favourite side effects of summer is how dewy the weather makes your skin. An increase in thermometer levels creates slightly tropical conditions, and all that heat and humidity leaves skin with a natural glow. The downside to that, however, is skin may feel a bit more congested, as sweat, pollution, and even cosmetic products tend to stick to it more stubbornly.
This can wreak havoc on acne prone skin types, resulting in an increase of unwanted spots. So, how can you avoid the appearance of dreaded breakouts? To start with, you should always ensure the skin is properly cleansed, maintain a healthy diet and get plenty of water and sleep. Secondly you should know that not all acne is the same, therefore, different types require different treatments. Treating a blackhead as you would a cyst would be like using a plaster on a broken bone—ineffective and potentially problematic. To make it simpler, let’s categorise acne into two main types: non-inflamed and inflamed acne.
NON-INFLAMED ACNE
None inflamed acne includes blackheads and whiteheads. These appear as blackheads (also called open comedones) form when oil and dead skin cells get trapped in a pore and are exposed to air. The black colour you see isn’t dirt but the result of oxidation. Whiteheads (also called closed comedones), on the other hand, are made up of the same mix of oil and dead skin cells. However, because the opening to the pore is so small, oxidation doesn't occur, resulting in a white or skin coloured bump.
Unlike their counterparts', non-inflamed acne is usually trapped underneath the skin, making their treatment ultimately trickier. We’ve seen blackheads that are a couple years old! Non-inflamed acne is also referred to as congestion, because they tend to occur in clusters, leaving skin with an uneven, bumpy texture.
If your complexion is becoming overcrowded due to congestion, then deeply cleansing and exfoliation is key to removing excessive dead skin cells from clogged pores and preventing further congestion, Reach for the Venn Moisture-Balance All-In-One Face Cleanser, this gentle, non-foaming cleanser contains Pineapple and Papaya Enzymes to gently exfoliate to reveal smoother skin and an even texture. While its blend of Antioxidants paired with Niacinamide work together to keeps skin rejuvenated and balanced. Congestion can affect all skin types, not just oily ones. Those with drier skin will also appreciate its hydrating properties.
Twice a week, follow up your cleanse with a decongesting mask such as the Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant. Rich in oil regulating yeast, this chocolate-coloured treatment actively unclogs and tightens pores, while balancing the skin’s microbiome. Although phenomenal for oily skin and congested skin, if you are a bit dehydrated, we recommend mixing it with Masque Vip O2. Its oxygenating anti-pollution complex brightens and unifies the complexion, while providing a boost of hydration and extra protection from oil oxidising particles.
Another great way to target congestion is incorporating a physical exfoliant into your routine. Irene Forte Apricot Penta-Acid Polish contains ingredients that deliver not one, but two methods of exfoliation, physical and chemical. Crushed apricot seeds buff away dead skin, helping to bring trapped bacteria and dead skin cells to the surface for effortless removal. While a blend of 5 different exfoliating acids penetrates the skin deeply to clear away congestion at its source. We love the addition of Algae and Aloe Vera juice which ensures this potent treatment is suitable for regular use on blackheads and whiteheads while remaining gentle on all skins. However, we advise against using it on active acne highly active exfoliating components
Following this step, we would normally pat on a toner. However, due to the season’s increase in humidity, we love to incorporate a mist instead. Mists are a great way to add a burst of lightweight hydration, and one such as the Irene Forte Helichrysum Toner, is perfect for those with congestion prone complexions. Packed full of Antioxidants, Prebiotics and deeply hydrating actives, it helps to balance skin’s oil and hydration balance, protect against oil oxidisation (blackheads forming), all while leaving skin soothed, radiant and more resilient against blemishes.
Using a serum containing hydrating actives such as hyaluronic acid can also effectively improve congested skin. Known for its ability to attract and retain 1000 times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid is revered as a superior hydrator. Emphasising hydration for congested skin is crucial, as insufficient water content can contribute to breakouts. And equally hydrated skin, is less likely to overproduce sebum and maintains effective skin cell turnover preventing build-up of dead skin cells and oil that lead to clogged pores.
Venn’s Age-Response Compound K Hyaluronic Booster contains a combination of three molecular weights of hyaluronic acid. This allows it to not only provide surface level hydration, but also travel into deeper layers of skin, plumping and smoothing as it goes. It is especially great for those with non-active acne, as it contains oil regulating and pore tightening extracts of Green Tea, along with a patented compound derived from Ginseng Root designed to plump, brighten post-blemish marks and deliver visible anti-ageing benefits.
As important of a step as they are, hydration serums are only as good as the moisturiser they are followed by. We know from experience that many oily and congestion-prone skin types feel the need to skip on moisturising, but doing so only exacerbates that cycle of excess oil production. A moisturiser helps to seal in your hydration, supporting your skin’s hydrolipidic film (a.k.a. the skin barrier) and balancing oil levels as it does.
The key is to pick the right moisturiser for your skin type. As congestion can affect all skin tendencies, try, and keep your moisturiser in line with your current skin needs. If you are noticing a mid-day sheen, a super lightweight cream such as Crème Collagène from Biologique Recherche is the one for you. Containing Yeast, Niacinamide and CICA (Centella Asiatica), its blend of actives regulates oil , whilst reducing the appearance of enlarged pores. It’s designed to not clog pores so is perfect for congested, non-active acne skin types.
If your congestion leans towards drier concerns, Biologique Recherche Crème Hydravit’S provides extra levels of moisture. Its addition of essential fatty acids allows it to offer a bit more nourishment and hydration, while keeping the formula light and fast absorbing.
INFLAMED ACNE
Inflamed acne usually looks the way it sounds, angry, red and elevated. This type of breakout occurs when there has been an infection in the sebaceous gland (the glands that produce oil). Big and juicy, they’re also infamously irresistible to squeezing. As tempting as pimple popping may be, doing so can lead not only to scarring, but create more breakouts down the line.
Most inflammatory acne occurrences share a common theme, and that’s overactive sebum production. While oily skin has its benefits, such as fewer lines as it ages, it can also lead to those dreaded spots. That’s why balancing your skins oil levels is key! A process which begins from the cleanser you opt for.
Hence why, counter to traditional practices, we like to direct our acne prone clients away from harsh washes. Yes, all that foam is hugely satisfying, especially when it reveals skin with less oil after your rinse. Unfortunately, those stripping cleansers get rid of everything, including the essential oils your skin needs. This stimulates the sebaceous glands to produce even more oil, resulting in a never-ending cycle of sebum overproduction.
For a gentler cleanse, Biologique Recherche’s Lait S.R. is the one to choose. This creamy wash deeply cleanses, without stripping the skin. Rose Hip Extract and Complex of Myrrh, Myrtle and Onion balance oil production and purify the skin, helping those with inflamed lesions find some relief. A great makeup remover, we find it a wonderful alternative to double cleansing. Skin is left refreshed, and impurities washed away, all the more prepared for products to follow.
A great product to use on an overzealous spot, is the Biologique Recherche Biomagic Mask. Featuring two purifying and detoxifying clays, Kaolin and Bentonite, application immediately reduces inflamed breakouts , without the risk of spreading acne causing bacteria. With the addition of Allantoin, it calms and soothes redness, a telltale sign of inflammation, while Sodium PCA alleviates feelings of skin dehydration.
Inflammatory acne can also benefit from exfoliation, but because of its nature, we recommend strictly chemical exfoliants to prevent an accidental popping and spreading bacteria Cult classic, Biologique Recherche P50W is more than up to the task. Featuring a trifecta of acids, Alpha Hydroxy, Poly Hydroxy, and Beta Hydroxy, it refines skin texture, kills the bacteria, reduces inflammation and prevent future spots . The acids also help to balance the pH of skin. This is important for oilier skin types, as they tend to have a lower skin pH, which when left untreated, results in even more inflammation and breakouts
Just as refreshing as the Irene Forte Helichrysum Toner, but a better option for inflammatory acne, Venn Symbiotic Defense Mist is a wonderful multitasker. A formula of 80% Pre- and Probiotics work overtime to balance the skins microbiome. This allows skin to be more resilient against the onslaught of environmental aggressors and acne-causing bacteria. It also provides a wonderful layer of hydration, allowing your humectant serum to work more effectively.
As we all know, humectants are very important in keeping skin hydrated and protected from early signs of skin ageing. But those with active acne breakouts can benefit even further, as a hydrated complexion helps keep excess oil at bay. Biologique Recherche’s Extraits Tissulaires is crafted with Alpine Pink Laurel. This novel ingredient is extracted via Stem Cell Technology, allowing skin to benefit from its potent effects. Alpine Pink Laurel is able to withstand temperature extremes, thriving all year round. The polyphenols in the plant are delivered deeply into skin, imbuing it with lightweight but efficient hydration. Fantastic at keeping skin dewy, and never shiny.
Here at Embassy, we understand that skin is constantly changing, so don’t be afraid to switch up your daily moisturiser depending on your current skin needs. In fact, for those with active acne, we recommend using a separate cream for both day and night. Crème Iso Placenta perfectly balances sebum production, making it great at keeping “shiny face” at bay throughout long summer days . Added biomimetic placenta is rich in growth factors that support the repair of skin, imperative to helping acne heal and minimise those post-blemish marks and scarring.
While for the evenings, Crème Dermopurifiante serves as more of a treatment moisturiser. Another yeast infused offering from Biologique Recherche, it utilises Arnica, Algae and Zinc to deeply purify and calm the skin. As you sleep, potent ingredients target inflammation, actively balancing and restoring healthys kin. Come morning, acne lesions are reduced in their redness and severity.
Just like any other skin condition, there isn’t a “one size pops all” treatment for acne. Some people suffer no breakouts throughout the winter. While come summer, they start to notice their skin isn’t as smooth as it previously was.
Regardless of why you’re breaking out in the sun, here at Embassy of Beauty, we’re equipped with an arsenal to keep our ambassadors looking their best. Thank you for reading, and we look forward to seeing you soon!
