Summer can be tough on your skin, especially when it comes to pigmentation. Increased sun exposure can lead to dark spots, freckles, and the worsening of existing pigmentation issues, making them more noticeable. In this blog, we’ll dive into why summer sun can trigger these changes in your skin and explore effective treatments and preventive steps to help manage pigmentation after the sunnier months.
The Science Behind Skin Pigmentation: Understanding How Pigmentation Marks Are Formed
Our skin colour is one of the most visible aspects of our identity, with the body determining this unique feature through skin pigmentation—a complex biological process involving cells, genes and even our environment. From the various shades of human skin to the development of pigmentation marks such as freckles and moles, there's a host of factors that contribute to how our skin gets its colour.
Melanin is a natural pigment responsible for the colour of our skin, hair and eyes, produced by specialised cells called melanocytes which are located in the deepest layer of the skin's epidermis. There are two main types of melanin: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin gives skin and hair darker shades, ranging from brown to black, while pheomelanin produces lighter shades, such as yellow, brown or red, and is more prevalent in individuals with fair skin or red hair.
The amount and type of melanin each person has is largely determined by genetics, which is why some people naturally have lighter or darker skin tones. But genetics is not the only factor—sun exposure, hormones, and even certain medical conditions can affect melanin production.
How Melanin Is Produced: The Process of Melanogenesis
Melanocytes produce melanin through a process known as melanogenesis. This process is triggered by tyrosinase, an enzyme that converts the amino acid tyrosine into melanin. Once melanin is created, it is packaged into small structures called melanosomes, which are then distributed to neighbouring skin cells called keratinocytes. The melanin in these cells helps to shield the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation by absorbing and dispersing it.
This protective feature of melanin is one reason why people with darker skin are less prone to sunburn than those with lighter skin. However, it’s important to note that everyone—regardless of skin colour—can be affected by UV damage, so sun protection is essential for all.
To treat pigmentation effectively, both recurrence and resistance need to be addressed. Pigmentation can easily recur due to persistent or renewed exposure to triggering factors like sun exposure or hormonal changes. Melanogenesis involves multiple pathways, so targeting just one pathway (like inhibiting tyrosinase) may not be enough to stop pigmentation. The skin often adapts, making some treatments less effective over time. Effective treatment requires a multi-faceted approach that addresses the underlying causes of melanin production, controls inflammation, protects the skin from UV damage and manages recurrence risks.
Biologique Recherche offer a range of products that specifically target skin pigmentation by working at 3 different stages of melanogenesis, helping to reduce the appearance of dark spots by inhibiting melanin production and migration to the skin’s surface.
An essential product to combat all types of pigmentation, including that induced by acne or menopause, Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400 is a bestselling exfoliating and brightening toner that unifies the complexion. Its balanced blend of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) gently exfoliate the skin. It works by gently removing dead skin cells and inhibiting melanin synthesis, which helps reduce existing pigmentation and prevent new dark spots. Meanwhile, antioxidants protect the skin from further damage by neutralising free radicals, which can exacerbate pigmentation. The formula also includes other brightening agents, like Red Algae Extract, which enhance the overall skin tone, leaving it clearer and more even. This combination helps combat pigmentation effectively, making the skin light, bright and clear.
Why Skin Colour Changes: Sun Exposure and Hormones
One fascinating aspect of melanin is its adaptability. When our skin is exposed to the sun, the body responds by producing more melanin as a defence mechanism, leading to tanning. This increase in melanin production helps to absorb more UV radiation and protect the deeper layers of the skin. However, over time, repeated sun exposure can also lead to the formation of pigmentation marks such as freckles and age spots.
Biologique Recherche Sérum PIGM 400, is a powerful anti-pigmentation serum formulated with Soy-based Pure Genistein, an antioxidant that reduces dark spots and inhibits melanin production. Combined with Watercress Sprout Extract, Biomimetic Peptide, and Sea Lily Extract, this serum effectively lightens existing pigmentation, unifies skin tone, and prevents future spots, offering comprehensive care for treating and preventing pigmentation, especially after sun exposure. The advanced blend leaves skin clearer, brighter, and more radiant
Hormonal changes can also impact melanin production. For example, during pregnancy, some women develop a condition called melasma (known as “the mask of pregnancy”), where darker patches of skin appear on the face due to hormonal shifts. These pigmentation changes are often temporary and fade after hormonal levels stabilise. Using targeted products can help manage these pigmentation changes. Biologique Recherche Crème PIGM 400 Crème PIGM 400 is a pregnancy-safe brightening cream that targets all three stages of melanogenesis, offering immediate radiance while hydrating dry, dull skin. Formulated with key ingredients like Pure Genistein and Wasabi Extract, it works to inhibit melanin production, reduce dark spots, and prevent new pigmentation. This cream restores a luminous, unified complexion, making it an ideal choice for those seeking to combat pigmentation while improving overall skin tone and texture.
Pigmentation Marks: How Freckles, Moles and Age Spots Are Formed
Pigmentation marks—such as freckles, moles and age spots—occur when melanin is produced in concentrated areas, rather than evenly across the skin.
Freckles are small, flat spots that are usually more noticeable in fair-skinned individuals. They form when melanin accumulates in clusters due to increased sun exposure. Although freckles may darken after sun exposure, they don’t involve an increase in melanocytes—instead, they’re caused by melanin being produced in higher quantities within existing melanocytes.
Moles are typically raised marks that can appear in a wide range of colours, from light brown to black. Unlike freckles, moles are caused by an overgrowth of melanocytes, which clump together in specific areas of the skin. Most moles are harmless, but some can develop into melanoma, a serious form of skin cancer, especially if they change in size, shape or colour.
Age Spots, also known as solar lentigines or liver spots, are flat, darkened areas that usually appear on parts of the skin that have been frequently exposed to the sun, such as the face, hands, and arms. Age spots are common as we get older and are a result of prolonged UV exposure that causes certain areas of skin to produce more melanin over time. Combatting these marks requires a combination of exfoliation, targeted treatment and hydration. The Auteur Definitive Enzyme Cleanser contains Zymo Lift MD and Citric Acid to exfoliate and Vitamin C to brighten, whilst Niacinamide fights inflammatory pigmentation and prevents pigment creation, making it an excellent first step in treating sun-exposed skin.
For deep hydration and barrier reinforcement after AHA exfoliating treatments, Triple Level Hyaluronic Serum by Irene Forte delivers clinically proven 12-hour hydration after just one application with its unique blend of three molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid. This ensures the skin remains plump and well-protected, which is crucial for reducing pigmentation sensitivity.
What Happens When Pigmentation Goes Awry: Hyperpigmentation and Hypopigmentation
Sometimes, the body’s melanin production process becomes disrupted, leading to uneven pigmentation. This can manifest as hypopigmentation (too little melanin resulting in lighter patches) in conditions such as vitiligo, albinism or pityriasis alba, although hyperpigmentation (too much melanin) is more common.
Hyperpigmentation occurs when the skin produces an excess amount of melanin in certain areas, causing dark patches or spots. Common forms of hyperpigmentation include:
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): Dark spots that appear after the skin heals from an injury, such as acne or a burn.
- Melasma: Hormone-induced hyperpigmentation, often seen during pregnancy or due to oral contraceptives.
- Sun spots: Darkened spots that develop from long-term sun exposure. Wearing sunscreen is crucial in preventing sun damage, uneven pigmentation and the formation of age spots or other pigmentation marks.
Treating Post-Summer Pigmentation: Combining Skincare with Science
Addressing pigmentation effectively means using products that target the various stages of melanin production and skin repair. VENN’s Vitamin B Activated All-In-One Concentrate, packed with 11 types of Amino Acids and 6 types of Vitamin Bs, strengthens the skin’s structure while brightening hyperpigmentation using Mastic Gum. Meanwhile, the VENN Advanced Multi-Perfecting Red Oil Serum, inspired by traditional Korean herbal medicine, leverages a potent blend of oils like Rosa Canina Fruit Oil to reduce hyperpigmentation and enhance skin’s resilience, resulting in a more even and radiant complexion.
Weekly treatments can also amplify your routine’s effectiveness. The Auteur Definitive Optimising Mask utilises Mango Extract and other active ingredients to exfoliate, smooth, and brighten mature, oily skin, helping to refine skin texture and reduce pigmentation visibility.
Ultimately, managing post-summer pigmentation requires a comprehensive approach that blends the science of melanogenesis with strategic skincare choices. By integrating exfoliants, hydrating serums, and potent anti-pigmentation treatments, you can effectively address the visible effects of sun exposure and protect your skin against future damage.