Target Pigmentation This Spring

Target Pigmentation This Spring

/ By Natalie Kingsley-Fieldgrass

An even, radiant complexion is a key sign of healthy skin, yet, achieving it may can oftentimes prove challenging. Various factors can lead to a dull appearance, with hyperpigmentation being a common culprit. 

But even though many people are concerned about their skin tone, most are getting the treatment wrong. As always, here at Embassy of Beauty, we’re dedicated to setting the record straight, and helping you achieve the skin of your dreams along the way. 

Before we divulge the goodies by thoroughly explaining  how to get rid of uneven skin tone and how to fade hyperpigmentation, let’s define what hyperpigmentation itself is. The name itself is quite self-explanatory, “hyper” being overly active, and pigmentation relating to skin colour. However, there are various causes and many forms of this pesky skin concern. 

Causes of Pigmentation 

The most common being exposure to UV rays. When we go out into the sun, our skin triggers melanin synthesis to protect it from solar radiation. This is also why people tan in the sun. 

Another culprit is inflammation, specifically post-inflammatory. You may have noticed after an injury to your skin, be it a cut, or scrape, the area can appear either red or brown, depending on your Fitzpatrick type. Acne is a type of injury, where the skin becomes infected, inflamed and then eventually ruptures, leaving behind those dark spots some call “acne scars”. 

Finally, we have melasma, which is perhaps the most notorious to treat. Melasma is caused by a combination of genetic predisposition, hormonal fluctuations, and UV exposure. This complex condition often appears as symmetrical, patchy pigmentation on the face and can be challenging to manage due to its tendency to recur.

Seasonal Changes 

No matter the type of pigmentation you may have, seasonal changes influence how it appears on the skin. In winter, reduced trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) slows natural cell turnover, causing corneocytes (dead skin cells) to build up, further resulting in a dull, uneven complexion. 

If you checked out our Winter article, your skin likely felt fewer of The Cold One’s effects. But as spring emerges, now is the time to address hyperpigmentation before summer makes its scorching return. Because treating hyperpigmentation during the hotter months can actually worsen it, triggering a rebound effect.  

This happens since most hyperpigmentation treatments work by exfoliating and inhibiting tyrosinase production, highly effective but also known for increasing sun sensitivity. With that in mind, here are the key pillars for tackling hyperpigmentation effectively this spring. 

Rejuvenate: Exfoliation to Increase Cell Turnover 

As dead skin accumulates over the month, it significantly impacts skin tone and overall complexion. The longer these cells take to shed, the duller the skin appears. By accelerating keratinocyte turnover, exfoliation promotes the removal of pigmented cells, revealing a fresh, even-toned complexion. It also enhances epidermal renewal, ensuring melanin is distributed evenly rather than forming dark spots. 

The cleanse is the first step of your routine, and incorporating an exfoliating cleanser can make a difference between the efficacy of your other products. Auteur Definitive Enzyme Cleanser is an advanced exfoliating powder cleanser, formulated to target pigmentation concerns while boosting overall skin radiance. Its Keratinolytic Enzyme Complex gently removes dead skin cells, supporting increased cellular turnover. Vitamin C derivatives, including Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside, help brighten the complexion, fade age spots, and reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production. Niacinamide further enhances the formula by strengthening the skin’s lipid barrier, refining pores, and smoothing surface lines. 

Adding in physical exfoliating treatment a few times a week can bolster your result and can sometimes be the best exfoliator for dark spots. The Irene Forte Apricot Penta Polish scrub mask combines both physical and chemical exfoliants to clarify and refine the skin, making it ideal for pigmentation concerns. Gluconolactone (PHA) gently exfoliates while hydrating and providing antioxidant protection. A powerful AHA blend consisting of Tartaric, Malic, Mandelic, and Citric Acids accelerates cell turnover, supports collagen, and helps fade pigmentation. Apricot Seed Powder enhances texture by sloughing off dead skin cells, while Aloe Leaf Juice soothes and hydrates for a balanced exfoliation experience. 

Strictly chemical exfoliation is amazing for consistently keeping dead skin at bay. Biologique Recherche Lotion PIGM 400 is perfect for spring skin renewal, offering up potent chemical exfoliation for glowing skin. This formula exfoliates and brightens while prepping the skin for products to follow. A blend of AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs gently removes dead cells, revealing a smoother, more radiant complexion. Brightening agents like Palmaria Palmata extract and flavonoid-rich fruit complexes help fade pigmentation and even skin tone. Vitamin B3 and Wasabi Extract provide antioxidant protection, shielding the skin from environmental stressors and promoting overall skin health. 

Treat: Lightening Agents to Block Tyrosinase   

Our skin colour is predetermined by melanin, the pigment that also gives colour to your hair, and eyes. It’s made by melanocytes in the skin and helps protect against UV damage by absorbing sunlight. The amount and type of melanin you have also determines your skin tone and how it reacts to the sun.  

Melanin is made with the help of an enzyme called tyrosinase. This enzyme starts the process by turning tyrosine, a natural protein, into melanin. When tyrosinase is more active, your skin makes more melanin, leading to darker spots or pigmentation. Sun exposure, hormones, and inflammation can all increase tyrosinase activity. 

After exfoliating dead, dull skin, incorporating tyrosinase inhibitors can actively treat your pigmentation concerns. For those with light hyperpigmentation, a weekly sheet mask, such as Biologique Recherche Masque PIGM 400, is designed to prevent dull tone and refresh the skin. Ascorbyl Glucoside, a stable form of Vitamin C, brightens the complexion and inhibits tyrosinase activity, while Palmaria Palmata Extract helps fade dark spots and even skin tone. Caviar Lime Extract provides gentle exfoliation, promoting a smoother, more radiant look. Pea Extract offers antioxidant protection against environmental stressors, and Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract supports skin renewal, enhancing clarity and brightness. 

Ayuna Balm K is a creamy, nourishing mask that’s been specially formulated to combat hyperpigmentation by regulating melanin production and boosting skin luminosity. Glucoraphanin from broccoli sprouts transforms into sulforaphane, which helps slow tyrosinase activity, reducing dark spots and uneven tone. Meanwhile, Luminous Clay with Biomimetic White Sapphire enhances radiance by reflecting light, creating an instant brightening effect and a more uniform complexion. 

For more targeted treatment, especially with those affected by melasma, the Biologique Recherche Serum PIGM 400 is an advanced anti-pigmentation formula that helps prevent and reduce hyperpigmentation. Watercress Sprout Extract and Genistein inhibit melanin synthesis for a more uniform complexion. Plum Pulp Extract delivers protection against environmental stressors, supporting skin renewal. Biomimetic Peptides promote cell regeneration to fade existing dark spots and prevent new ones. Sea Lily and Sea Fern Extracts enhance radiance, and Wasabi Extract provides powerful antioxidant defence against oxidative stress and premature ageing. 

Elevate its results via the Biologique Recherche Creme PIGM 400, an anti-pigmentation cream that prevents sun and age spots while brightening and evening the complexion. Soy Isoflavones provide antioxidant support for skin rejuvenation, while Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate targets dark spots for a more uniform tone. Finally, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract revitalises the skin with additional antioxidant benefits, making this the perfect finisher to your skin tone glow-up.  

Prevent: Antioxidants to Fight Free Radicals   

The saying “prevention is better than cure” holds especially true for hyperpigmentation. Antioxidants, powerful free radical scavengers, are essential in any skincare routine, including those addressing pigmentation concerns. 

Free radicals are unstable molecules triggered by UV exposure, pollution, and stress, causing oxidative damage, collagen breakdown, and premature ageing. Antioxidants like Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Niacinamide help neutralise these harmful molecules, minimising inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier, and preventing dark spots and fine lines for healthier, more resilient complexion. 

Containing a potent cocktail of antioxidants, the VENN Age-Reversing All-In-One Concentrate combats hyperpigmentation by neutralising skin damaging free radicals and reducing oxidative stress, which can trigger excess melanin production. Ginsenoside Compound K from Panax Ginseng and Glutathione work to brighten the complexion by significantly inhibiting melanin synthesis, while Niacinamide prevents dark spots by reducing pigment transfer. Scutellaria Baicalensis and Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extracts provide extra antioxidant protection, helping to soothe inflammation and promote a more even skin tone. 

Sunscreen is essential for everyone, all year round, without exception. For those addressing hyperpigmentation, steps like regular exfoliation can increase skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Broad-spectrum SPF (UVA and UVB) is crucial to prevent further pigmentation. UV exposure not only stimulates melanocyte activity but also causes oxidative stress, boosting enzyme activity that triggers melanin production. Choose a sunscreen, such as RAAIE Sun Milk Drops SPF 50, that provides both sufficient SPF protection and antioxidant benefits.  

Providing both protection and skin enhancement, this chemical-based SPF50 sunscreen defends against UVA, UVB, blue light, pollution, and infrared radiation. Its antioxidant-rich formula, featuring Niacinamide and Bisabolol, helps combat oxidative stress, improve skin tone, and soothe inflammation, making it essential for increased sun exposure. 

Hyperpigmentation can be annoying, but with the right products, it doesn’t have to be hard. The selections above are just a few options to help you achieve that even glow. Come into the Embassy today and one of our expert skin therapists can provide a thorough consultation and customise a routine just for you. 

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  • / By Natalie Kingsley-Fieldgrass